An M day: monotremes and maritime

Quieter day today we will drive to the Batman bridge . This is the first cable stayed bridge built  in Australia and amongst the first built in the world.I did ask where is  the Robin bridge? Funny  but there was no answer….perhaps we will have to ask Mr Google.


The Tamar river swirls around it with lots of eddies and ripples.

Do you remember when there was an earthquake in Tasmania? It caused a mine to collapse and two men were trapped for two weeks.

A mine shaft

Yes ,you are right. It was Beaconsfield.The original mine opened in 1904 as a gold mine.  We are not going to the museum. It doesn’t open till 10 but there is lots to see outside.

The miner’s cottage
Dining

 

Bedroom…look at the ceiling. It has canvas on it.
Lounge
Kitchen . Mum might get some mending done.
Bathroom/laundry

Need to take the bus, get supplies like groceries or oil? Time to go to the shop run by Mrs Barbara Swan. She will help you.

It is the size of a tiny shed
The local shop in Sidmouth 1930-1941

The miner’s children need schooling. Sidmouth had a school to cater from Kindergarten to Year 7. All classes in one room.

The schoolroom

Guess what? We are going to see platypus and echidnas! Sorry given up on seeing platypus in the wild. This way I am sure to see them in as natural as possible setting.

They were sooooooo cute. There is one male and 3 female platypus and 2 male and 1 female echidna. Did you enjoy watch the platypus snuffle along the bottom of the gravel looking for live yabbies, worms and fly larvae. Their bills sense the heartbeat of their prey as they have their eyes shut and ears closed.

Looking for worms

Did you know a group of platypus are called a paddle and their babies are called puggles? Echidna babies are also called puggles but a group are called a parade, herd or flock. Eddie, Edwina and Thomas are not shy.




You can only see half my tongue
Move over, are you hiding food

I think a short drive before we return to Georgetown.Coffee?

Apples…often these are covered with a canopy.
Beauty Point where one part of the Maritime University is located.
Beauty Point

Bass and Flinders are famous for their exploration of Tasmania. In particular they proved it was an island separate from the mainland of Australia. Flinders accurately navigated and mapped the island. In Georgetown you can see a replica of the Norfolk. It is made of local timbers of Huon pine and cypress. This was the boat used by Flinders with his cat Trim. Bass and Flinders explored in a smaller boat called the Tom Thumb.



A beautiful boat made in a traditional method. No nails here

Sleeping area

Can you imagine 10 men squashed in this boat for months? I couldn’t.
A fun saying-

Tow rag

Since it is not raining today, I think we should go back to the Low Head lighthouse. If we are lucky we might see inside the original cottage and the only operating diaphone air foghorn in Australia, Two families shared the 4 rooms in the cottage.

   




Look how much development has changed the navigation light surroundings.

One navigational light
The other light is now in  a suburb

Time to go. Start packing. Back home tomorrow.

 

 

To the north!

So what are we up to today? Mostly we are just enjoying the lovely countryside in this area……with a few coffee stops.

This was made when a tree fell across the sculptor’s driveway.

To begin we are visiting a lavender farm. Bridestowe Lavender Farm was established in 1922. Unfortunately we did not see beautiful purple blooms blowing fragrance in the air as the main harvest was in January.

New plantings

We did try lavender scones…not my favourite. Did you try them or was the ice cream more your taste.
Lavender ice cream seems popular.

Bridport is next. It is mainly a tourist town but it did have a history in timber transport. In one area , there is a conservation reserve for wildflower preservation. Only banksia’s were in flower, just my luck. 

All that remains of  Brisport’s timber history is the pylons of the old pier.



   

       

On route to Low Head we saw some wood carvings in a tree stump.This seems popular in this area as there are more in George Town. Do you know the type of tree? I will have to find out.

Low Head is the site of the oldest pilot station in Australia. Ships had been struggling to negotiate the entrance to the Tamar river. The pilot was rowed out in a whaler boat no matter what the conditions.

   

   


This Morse code equipment and semaphore flags were used by a young lady to signal the ships. This helped the trainees on the ships to practise.

Were you a pirate captain and complete the tasks.
My knots for the ladder were great

 

A mercury barometer. The inlay is beautiful

School and local shows meant visitors to the station.
School meant both boys and girls got to do sewing and model building

 

Pirate treasure?
Toolbox

A lighthouse was built not far from the pilot station.The pilot station is now a museum. Although there is a lighthouse, there is still a pilot ensuring boats don’t go astray. The last boat wrecked was in 1995, the Iron Baron. The best thing about the museum is the personal stories that bring history alive.

Low  Head Lighthouse cottage

Low end was and is a popular holiday destination . Summer brought many people . When the actual station was downsized, the local community bought the area so that it could be preserved and kept for everyone. You can rent the pilot cottages  for holidays and this helps maintain the site.

Low Head lighthouse

One funny story is  about cows and the foghorn. In the past  cows wondered around the town and neighbouring fields during the day. At night they would come home  to be milked. But when the fog horn was installed , they all went to the lighthouse. They thought or were hopeful, that it was a bull. Their owners had to start fencing them into yards.

Around the town are historical buildings.We are staying in the Pier hotel built in 1880’s. Mike remembers it from his sailing days…..part of his misspent youth?



Check out some of the interesting buildings , sights and statues around the town. I even found a penguin!

   

Town park
The watch house (1843)

There’s those trees!
A whaling ship…
On the tree stumps

     

A castle?
A vintage shop with style!

Tomorrow will be more history…….some of it is really interesting…and we are going to a platypus and echidna reserve. Yes you will get to see them so have that camera or iPhone ready.

To the most easterly point

Today we are planning to go to the most easterly point on Tasmania at the Eddystone Point Lighthouse. We started well and first stop was the coastal town of St Helen’s. This is mainly a tourist town now but the murals on the Memorial Hall and Town hall remind people of the history of the area.

From here we pass through beautiful coastal areas , grazing and open forest . Roads pass through villages with only a few houses and you wonder how they survive. There are no shops and little mobile coverage! Teenage girls would not cope. Sealed roads become gravel and you have to slow as cars pass because of the dust and risk of stones flying up.

I’ve found a nice cool spot and there is only room for me!
Why did the cattle cross the road….because they were being herded across!
That is dust rising…not a cloud

Now the GPS took us down a road with dips in it big enough to swallow  the car, 4WD material. We came to a tiny beach and when Mike climbed to the top of the stones ,yes he could see the lighthouse …in the distance

That is the lighthouse way over there in the centre



Definitely not the right road or place. Back we go and using a different map arrived! The lighthouse is beautiful. Built in 1889, its  importance is reflected in there being 3 houses so there must have been 3 keepers. In such a remote spot, you would have needed more people to ensure the lighthouse could be manned.

I was not aware that there was tin mining in Tasmania. Chinese miners came and settled in the area around Derby . There is a memorial to the Dragon Tin Trail.Many miners did not return home. If they could ,other miners would collect the remains after a year or two , cremate them and send them back for a  traditional second burial.     

Through Derby and then on to Scottsdale, we are nearly at our next hotel.

The trout

Derby and many areas close to it have mountain bike trails. Are you sad you forgot yours? You could do the 26 km Rail trail,or not.Bikes  can  be  hired.  
   

 

Scottsdale has some beautiful 1800’s timber buildings.



   

This shop has everything including a top hat.

Tomorrow we explore further north Do you like lavender? Hopefully we will get to the lavender farm tomorrow.

To the east coast

Travel in Tasmania is easy, especially on the not so popular routes. The midlands is drier than south . Today we are going through some historical towns known for their original Georgian architecture, Oatlands, Richmond and Ross. Each has a quiet, serene, country feel with wide streets. Amazing really when you consider that transport would have been limited and by horse or perhaps the coach service. We did see some isolated houses that would have offered that cup of tea or soup to the weary traveller.
Richmond was set up as a convict town. There was a gaol…..no we are not visiting as you have seen enough convict places.

Richmond gaol
Gaol front

We are going to admire the houses and then have coffee.





 



I found a platypus!

and I loved these ceramic pictures…..just couldn’t think where I could put it. You were no help so they had to stay there.

Oatlands was surprising. There was a beautiful mill and 150 Georgian houses. I loved the pictures they had running in the mill and mill cottage. It made the history real. What was your favourite?

  

Miller’s cottage



Next stop, Ross and another beautiful convict bridge. This one even have decorative carvings and was finished quickly when the stone masons were offered emancipation as an incentive. It would have been an incentive for me as well I think. There was a female convict gaol here but there is only the supervisor cottage left. Women stayed here washing laundry or looking after babies for the township until they were allocated as servants.

Supervisor cottage

 

Did you know Tasmania was once divided along the 42degree line? I didn’t. It was divided into the Count of Buckinghamshire and the County of Cornwall . They were very competitive and they were only unified when both leaders died. It wasn’t until 1959 that there was a ceremonial burying of the hatchets. We know how that goes…look how Melbourne and Sydney have rivalries in NSW. Ross still remains the only settlement on the 42degree line in the world.

Copy of bridge carvings

Surprise! Ross is the wool centre for Tasmania . The museum was interesting…..and small so no groaning!

Slipper bath
A tapestry designed by the artist Coburn

   

 

  

Bischeno is a lovely coastal town with beautiful beach views. There are penguins here during different times of the year. You guessed it…they knew we were coming and went on holiday. We spent ages down at the beach in the dark but I think children running, dogs barking and swimming was also a deterrent.

To the look out.Stay on the path as those rocks look hard.

If you went diving you could see these. I didn’t 🙁

   

The blowhole.

Foreshore walk

Let’s try again for those  penguins tonight. We head north again tomorrow.

 

Way down south

Is your brain in overload after days of history? It’s time to explore the outdoor life. We are heading south starting with Mt Wellington. This mountain soars above the landscape close to Hobart and has been popular with hikers since the 1800’s. It is made from dolerite  which has weathered into interesting shapes.

Going up!

As you can see, it is foggy. Verrry foggy and there is a brisk wind blowing. Good thing you rugged up because so many people seem to have come unprepared.

   



Hey look , it a wooden boat building centre. Let’s check it out…..it is run by volunteers who are trying to keep the art of wooden boat building alive. Now it’s internationally recognised and you can qualify for a certificate. Shame we don’t have time but the boats are beautiful. If you live here in Franklin, you can pay $150 annually to the boat organisation and use any of their many boats.  This will be a problem for me……have no idea how to sail or row a boat….and I don’t live in Franklin.

Viking carving for a customer

A whaler replica boat complete with harpoon stand.

A good use of wood scraps
Inuit style…

Which one will you choose?
Skills needed

If you want to know the characters of Geeveston, just check out the beautiful Huon pine carvings around the town. Each have contributed to their community in a positive way.Can you guess their occupations?

This will surprise you, she ran a haberdashery.


 

Everywhere we go, I try to show you the local wildlife…and usually fail.  Nothing has changed. Platypus are common in this area. I looked carefully and so did you but they have gone on holiday elsewhere.    

   

Do you remember the TV series Rosehaven? No/yes well anyway part of the series was filmed here in Geeveston. Now our claim to fame will be that we were here too!

You know you are in timber country when a memorial is in the shape of a cut log and one sight is a big tree….aptly named the “big log”.

Today is “Let’s enjoy the outdoors day”. You will climb over 750 stairs  and walk quite a few kilometres. I can hear your groans but you will be having so much fun you won’t notice.



Ready. We are going up there.

The fire started just below the mountain and then started to spread. There was a wind change and it jumped the river and burnt out 67000 hectares of bush land in 2019. Flames were reaching up to more than 50 metres and the fire became a crown fire. The air walk was rebuilt and the bush is recovering. Many of the oldest trees could not be saved.

Could you live out here?
Swing bridge
No rocking it!

Rest time and a quick coffee. Time to do a few more stairs. We are going to the Hasting caves and hot springs. 500 stairs involved. Are you up for it.Like all caves, it is dark with beautiful formations.

   

 


The hot springs are around 21 -28degrees Celsius. You can go swimming if you want. You forgot your swimsuit. Oh dear…skinny dipping isn’t allowed , sorry. I think it’s time to head back so we don’t add to the road kill by running over and wildlife on the road. 

 

 

 

Footsteps in history

If you could choose to go back in time, would you take the risk? Today we are going to learn about the lives of people in the past and the choices some of them made. Modern cities are often built on the ruins or foundations of other buildings. This results in discoveries of past lifestyles and can cause interesting preservation methods. This is the case in St David’s park. There was a cemetery here of people who were first fleeters or who were moved from the settlement on Norfolk Island. Parliament and government expansion required these graves to be moved . Now they form part of this park and are definitely not forgotten.

For the important.
For the average

As you would expect, women either died around childbearing age or made old bones if they survived this stage. Children often did not get beyond 2 while men seemed to survive to their 50’s or older.

From here we walked past some interesting buildings and sculptures….penguins and seals are very popular subjects in Hobart, to Hobart Penitentiary.

St David’s Cathedral.

   


75,000 convicts were transported to Tasmania. 30,000 were women and children. We know many of the crimes committed were fairly minor but punishments metered out were often harsh. Some crazy people actually committed crimes so they could be transported because they couldn’t afford the passage costs to emigrate. Big mistake!

Initially, convicts would find accommodation and jobs in the community. This changed with Governor Arthur who believed reform came with deprivation , punishment and religion. The Hobart penitentiary was built with this in mind. Food was sparse and there was plenty of hard labour and the lash.

 

If you look closely, you can see the solitary confinement cells underneath the floor of the chapel. If there was church, prisoners could hear it and those above could smell and hear the moans of those below, 1850 saw these removed as inhumane. Only the worst criminals were then kept on the site. The clock tower was added in 1830 so the locals could go to church on Sunday but stay separate from the convicts. The clock makers later went on to design Big Ben in1840.

The altar
The pews
The beams of the ceiling
Cell close to pulpit
The pulpit. The cell underneath was so low the prisoner could only lie there.
Stairs down to cells and future tunnels
A solitary cell

It was later used as a court. This was continued into the late 1900’s.

Arrow marked bricks. It was obvious if you stole them

A cell for a repeat offender.

Prisoners would be escorted to the court via tunnels from the holding cells .

You will be here for awhile so no graffiti and it is not a toilet.

Some were sent to the gallows. The last hanging was in the 1940’s.

The lever
The noose..12 knots for the jury and one for the judge.
The trapdoor

  Some became upstanding members of the society, others did not. Records of convicts transported, including the transport ship, crime, physical characteristics .occupation and what happened or them have been found. These can now be accessed from the archives.

Leisure.

Our next walk through history was the replica of Mawson’s huts. Imagine a whole heap of pipe smoking men, wet wool and cold. It was certainly evidence of human endurance, perseverance and friendship.

Building the huts
It is a bit cold or are we dressed as monsters.

Mawson’s room/ office/ the record room for scientific findings.

Mawson and those who remained to look for him survived two winters in Antartica.

Well after such a history filled morning you deserve coffee, a fun sculpture and a question.

   

When you are rested, we are off to the botanical gardens. They have plants from Macquarie Island in a very cold room.

 

The caretaker cottage
Sub Antartica house

The gardener is a based on a phot from the 1800’s

 

 

 

 

Kew over the city with the bridge over the Derwent.

Tomorrow we leave for Mt Wellington and the Huon valley. Expect some walking😄

 

 

 

 

Bruny Island

All ready…we are heading to Bruny Island. It is known for yummy food and scenery. You can give me your opinion this afternoon.   
On the way to Kettering we passed Margate Train. No you are not going for a ride…..the carriages are actually shops and a cafe. We are too early for coffee. But we are close to the ferry terminal.



Here is the queue!

Squashed onto the ferry like sardines in a tin


Look you did get a ferry ride after all.

We will drive to the lighthouse first and beat the crowds.

   
It is a long haul up to the lighthouse ,but there were heaps of wildflowers out to take photos of while you catch your breath. You and I certainly took advantage of this didn’t we?

Half way point

   

 

Life would have been harsh here. One lighthouse keeper was here in a two bedroom cottage with 11 children. 4 of these went on to be lighthouse keepers too.
Bruny Island has a reputation for its beautiful beach at Adventure Bay, honey ,cider, whisky, cheese, raspberries, chocolates and oysters. It’s too early for some of these …l’ll let you decide which.

Chocolate anyone?

Adventure Bay beach

The sand is very pale and the water today ,with the blue sky ,was the most amazing colour of turquoise.

Can you see the whale and her calf inside the globe?

Bruny Island has sheep and cattle grazing. Here are some  photos of the countryside and a few quirky sights.

Blue farmer….part of a anti depression programme.

Let’s head to the’Neck’, a thin strip in the middle of the island. It is full of bird nests. Sorry we didn’t fit into the bird’s schedule, so no penguins in sight.


Hungry? We could try the cheese but it looks packed with all those having  a free taste……how about oysters?



  

Oops the natural have disappeared.

Time to head for the car ferry before the queues get too long and we hit peak traffic.

Lots more to discover tomorrow. Let’s decide what we will do in the morning.

 

 

 

Here in Hobart

Hobart has many historical buildings within walking distance of the waterfront. We are staying in the Customs House Hotel……it is now a complex consisting of 3 buildings cobbled together. Think stairs and sloping floors. The view is great. We look out across to Constitution Dock. The Parliament building and gardens are beside it across the road.

Our view complete with smudges on the window.
Parliament House

Soooooooo you are going to walk around and play which building is that near the hotel and also at Battery Point. Battery Point was the place where 3 unsuccessful attempts were made to build a defence for the new settlement in the early days. Despite this , there are some beautiful example of colonial and later building styles.

Salamanca Place
The Village on Battery Point. Housewives would shop here daily for food and gossip
Fusiliers Cottage : a Georgian style building 1833
A cute combination : Monsoon and Rainkoat

 

Arthur’s circle
These were wharf workers cottages. Small and often crowded with big families…now highly sought. 1850’s.
Lenna
Narryna, built by a captain of a whaler ship. He had to sell it two years later

Customs House Hotel

You do realise that Hobart was developed on a maritime industry so yes you are off to the Maritime Museum. No complaining…..I have scored the children’s scavenger hunt and we are on a mission to find Lego men and stuffed animals….oh and we will read about shipwrecks and maritime stuff.  Can you see teddy, Mr rat, echidna, and at least 2 Lego men?

A compact basin and cupboard
A canoe from paperbark bundles

Mike found equipment he used as an apprentice

Beautiful scrimshaw


There were quite a few shipwrecks on Tasmania’s wild coast. Some occurred because hazards were not reported or recorded on maps. There were also stories of amazing survival such as Blythe Star where 7 survived on a life raft and then landing in a remote area.

Can you see the Customs House Hotel in this old photo?

A few other sights…..we did start looking at Historical sites in the city circle but decided it would wait till another day.

I finally saw a platypus
Monument to Dutch explorers.
Vision
Now
Franklin square now

 



   

Coffee? See you tomorrow. We are off to Bruny Island , think oysters, chocolate and perhaps a walk up a lighthouse…..be ready.

To Hobart

Todays plan:
Strahan…….🚗…….Queenstown🥞☕️……🚗……Horsetail Falls…..🚗…….Nelsons Falls……🚗………Hamilton…..🚗…….Hobart

It’s raining so no rush….hopefully the weather will improve so load up and we will head to Queenstown. The distance is only 45 km and we will have breakfast at Queenstown station so we can check out the tiny ( yes I said tiny) museum.

Hills surrounding Queenstown are almost naked of vegetation. Processing of and mining of Zinc in the early 1900’s caused plumes of sulphur to pollute the environment and destroyed the vegetation. Tree felling and fire finished off the vegetation.All that was left was the rocky outcrops. There are signs that the soils are building up and vegetation is returning in the crevices between the rocky outcrops. Mining and tourism have bought benefits to the community and the population have embraced this in a series of sculptures depicting events in the area.

     

The town has retained its country feel with the wide street and elaborate pub architecture. There is even an art deco theatre. 

Mural on the side of the Paragon theatre.

 

Mining has influenced all activities in the town and is linked to the railway. Before road transport was established, everything was transported from Strahan by train.

It was the link for the people to the outside world. Distances in this area between settlements are still quite large and even now communication  can be limited. For most of our time there wasn’t even mobile coverage.  Fuel stations are infrequent and may not be manned. If telecommunications go down, you can’t get fuel because your credit card won’t work. There are few other traveller on the road. We could count a one hand the number of cars we passed. 
Just out of Queenstown is Horsetail Falls. Following rain, you can see them from the highway….but we weren’t lazy were we ? ….We walked along the boardwalk to see them ,risking life and limb as it clings to the sides of the mountain. Did you like that drama? Well there is a considerable gap along the edge.  

Not far from the falls  was once a thriving mining town called Linda. All that remains is a coffee shop , a few houses and the ruins of one of the three hotels. Gold ran out. There was a mining disaster where 42 men lost their lives and people started to leave.The coffee was great and the people lovely. They were happy to share the history and old photos which made it so real don’t you think.

See the ruins in the background

More exercise…..you have been sitting for awhile. It says it’s an easy walk to the Nelson Falls. It was worth it , you have to admit.

 

Sculpture near the Wall

Get settled, it’s a three hour drive from here to Hobart. You can enjoy the scenery and we may stop briefly in Hamilton. Did you now it has stone buildings that were paid for by making illegal liquor.

 

The great divide range.

Stone buildings at Hamilton

 

Look at that cloud hovering above the valley!

Well the rain has held off…mostly and here we are in Hobart. Get settled and tomorrow we will explore historical parts of Hobart.

Surprising Strahan

Strahan has many opportunities to occupy your time. Did you find things to you would like to do or will you join us on the cruise up the Gordon River?

Do you remember when they were considering damming the river for hydro electricity In the 80’s? I was busy with babies but it was in the news. The river was saved. Heading out into the harbour  we are soon at Hells Gate. It is so narrow only  80 metres wide. Can you imagine trying to sail through this narrow opening? Captain Kelly tried to make it safer by building a rock wall but this only helped a little.

I am glad they saved the river as it is so peaceful and beautiful. At the  Heritage Landing, there is a list of trees you can identify. You know me and scavenger hunts….off we went and found all the trees.

Laurel   
2300 year old Huon pine.
Huon roots spread allowing new trees to grow.
Huon pine grain is tight.
Huon pine

Sarah island was the home to many convicts. It was considered a harsh, rebellious convict settlement with poor conditions. This changed in 1829 when a storm destroyed much of the infrastructure. Shipbuilding was started on the island and since there was a source of Huon pine and other timbers, it was successful. Convicts learnt skills and their conditions improved.

This was 3 stories high
Solitary confinement.
Boat slip remains

Now you would think this was a win ,win situation for government and convicts. Government is selling the boats and convicts are not causing problems.  No way…..the Government decided convicts should be punished and wanted them moved to Port Arthur. One group of 10 took an unfinished boat, made it sea worthy and escaped. A year later , 4 were recaptured  in Chile and  brought back to be tried……..”The ship that never was”…..we went to the play but more later.
You have had a leisurely day so far so I think a walk is required……a short one so no sad faces. A short walk to Hogarth falls and it’s mostly flat! A family donated this land and waterfall to the town in the early 1920’s, Local schools look after the area for every one.


Heritage West Coast train trips are considered a must in this area. The train and line is being upgraded so sorry, you will have to come again. See I told you that you would have to come again  and do the activities you missed this time. Afternoon tea? The scones are amazing.

I mentioned a play. 10 convicts took the boat they were building and escaped to sea. 4 were recaptured a year later and brought back to face trial. They were accused with committing mutiny and treason. The play is an audience participation event as there are only 3 actors. Mike was the gunsmith, John Barker. It was hilarious wasn’t it. Everyone joined into the fun and the result of the trial…..it was argued that as the boat had not been registered and had no papers…..it was a felony. A bundle of sticks had been stolen so not a hanging offence. Definitely a fun event!



It’s pouring rain. No bushwalking today……no cheering thank you…..it’s good for you. It may be museums or something else.

Come Join us on our travels!