To Hobart

Todays plan:
Strahan…….🚗…….Queenstown🥞☕️……🚗……Horsetail Falls…..🚗…….Nelsons Falls……🚗………Hamilton…..🚗…….Hobart

It’s raining so no rush….hopefully the weather will improve so load up and we will head to Queenstown. The distance is only 45 km and we will have breakfast at Queenstown station so we can check out the tiny ( yes I said tiny) museum.

Hills surrounding Queenstown are almost naked of vegetation. Processing of and mining of Zinc in the early 1900’s caused plumes of sulphur to pollute the environment and destroyed the vegetation. Tree felling and fire finished off the vegetation.All that was left was the rocky outcrops. There are signs that the soils are building up and vegetation is returning in the crevices between the rocky outcrops. Mining and tourism have bought benefits to the community and the population have embraced this in a series of sculptures depicting events in the area.

     

The town has retained its country feel with the wide street and elaborate pub architecture. There is even an art deco theatre. 

Mural on the side of the Paragon theatre.

 

Mining has influenced all activities in the town and is linked to the railway. Before road transport was established, everything was transported from Strahan by train.

It was the link for the people to the outside world. Distances in this area between settlements are still quite large and even now communication  can be limited. For most of our time there wasn’t even mobile coverage.  Fuel stations are infrequent and may not be manned. If telecommunications go down, you can’t get fuel because your credit card won’t work. There are few other traveller on the road. We could count a one hand the number of cars we passed. 
Just out of Queenstown is Horsetail Falls. Following rain, you can see them from the highway….but we weren’t lazy were we ? ….We walked along the boardwalk to see them ,risking life and limb as it clings to the sides of the mountain. Did you like that drama? Well there is a considerable gap along the edge.  

Not far from the falls  was once a thriving mining town called Linda. All that remains is a coffee shop , a few houses and the ruins of one of the three hotels. Gold ran out. There was a mining disaster where 42 men lost their lives and people started to leave.The coffee was great and the people lovely. They were happy to share the history and old photos which made it so real don’t you think.

See the ruins in the background

More exercise…..you have been sitting for awhile. It says it’s an easy walk to the Nelson Falls. It was worth it , you have to admit.

 

Sculpture near the Wall

Get settled, it’s a three hour drive from here to Hobart. You can enjoy the scenery and we may stop briefly in Hamilton. Did you now it has stone buildings that were paid for by making illegal liquor.

 

The great divide range.

Stone buildings at Hamilton

 

Look at that cloud hovering above the valley!

Well the rain has held off…mostly and here we are in Hobart. Get settled and tomorrow we will explore historical parts of Hobart.

Surprising Strahan

Strahan has many opportunities to occupy your time. Did you find things to you would like to do or will you join us on the cruise up the Gordon River?

Do you remember when they were considering damming the river for hydro electricity In the 80’s? I was busy with babies but it was in the news. The river was saved. Heading out into the harbour  we are soon at Hells Gate. It is so narrow only  80 metres wide. Can you imagine trying to sail through this narrow opening? Captain Kelly tried to make it safer by building a rock wall but this only helped a little.

I am glad they saved the river as it is so peaceful and beautiful. At the  Heritage Landing, there is a list of trees you can identify. You know me and scavenger hunts….off we went and found all the trees.

Laurel   
2300 year old Huon pine.
Huon roots spread allowing new trees to grow.
Huon pine grain is tight.
Huon pine

Sarah island was the home to many convicts. It was considered a harsh, rebellious convict settlement with poor conditions. This changed in 1829 when a storm destroyed much of the infrastructure. Shipbuilding was started on the island and since there was a source of Huon pine and other timbers, it was successful. Convicts learnt skills and their conditions improved.

This was 3 stories high
Solitary confinement.
Boat slip remains

Now you would think this was a win ,win situation for government and convicts. Government is selling the boats and convicts are not causing problems.  No way…..the Government decided convicts should be punished and wanted them moved to Port Arthur. One group of 10 took an unfinished boat, made it sea worthy and escaped. A year later , 4 were recaptured  in Chile and  brought back to be tried……..”The ship that never was”…..we went to the play but more later.
You have had a leisurely day so far so I think a walk is required……a short one so no sad faces. A short walk to Hogarth falls and it’s mostly flat! A family donated this land and waterfall to the town in the early 1920’s, Local schools look after the area for every one.


Heritage West Coast train trips are considered a must in this area. The train and line is being upgraded so sorry, you will have to come again. See I told you that you would have to come again  and do the activities you missed this time. Afternoon tea? The scones are amazing.

I mentioned a play. 10 convicts took the boat they were building and escaped to sea. 4 were recaptured a year later and brought back to face trial. They were accused with committing mutiny and treason. The play is an audience participation event as there are only 3 actors. Mike was the gunsmith, John Barker. It was hilarious wasn’t it. Everyone joined into the fun and the result of the trial…..it was argued that as the boat had not been registered and had no papers…..it was a felony. A bundle of sticks had been stolen so not a hanging offence. Definitely a fun event!



It’s pouring rain. No bushwalking today……no cheering thank you…..it’s good for you. It may be museums or something else.

Highlights and disappointments?

Ready to explore more……we are heading to Strahan today with a few stops on the way. Walking shoes may be required so be prepared. It is another windy day so even the birds were looking for a place to camp.

Guess what! Get ready for bumps because all the roads on this route are gravel. Surprise!


Tasmania’s west coast is known for its food( spectacular scallop pie last night) and its magnificent wild landscapes. First stop is definitely one of these. We are at Bluff Point light house. Beware of the bees and being blown away….but look at the view. It doesn’t disappoint.

   

Next stop over the bridge at Arthur’s River and to the Edge of the World.Spectacular isn’t it? Were you blown away?  I struggled to hold the camera to take a photo and Mike looked like he was going to lose his jacket.

   

 

Leaving the actual coast, you are now heading through the coastal low sedges and grasses to the temperate rainforest. Now watch out for Tasmanian devils……the signs say they are about.

   Spot any? Me neither 🙁

Now we did see a Thylacine……..sculpture. This was at the Extinction lookout site. It looked across the forest towards the Savage river. I must admit the smell of the forest was amazing….a mixture of eucalyptus and tea tree.

It is upside down,in case you are wondering.

Are you ready for a boat ride…..well a punt actually across the Pieman river? Not sure how it got its name but pies are a popular food in Australia. The punt is called Fatman barge.

   

Sorry this is the first of your disappointments. The punt is broken. You will have to back track 150 kilometres …..back to Waratah . Look there is a waterfall in the centre of the town.

Waratah

 

Through to Zeehan. There is a heritage centre here showing the whole history of the West coast. Oops it closed at 4.00pm. You missed it . I can see you are disappointed but we have to come back to ride the historical train in a year or two. You can go then…..if you would like. I was disappointed in the town. I thought it would be full of historical buildings but it wasn’t.

At last we’ve made it to Strahan, It is dinner time. You must be hungry, I am. Let’s book in and go to dinner. Tomorrow we are going up the Gordon River and need to be at the boat by 8.00am. Comfortable shoes and perhaps a jacket required…

 

No passport needed!

Christmas is over and those itchy feet, or perhaps I should say fingers, have been in action so off we go. Yes an early start but look……We are about to land in Launceston, Tasmania. Time to use those air credits up from COVID and see some places closer to home. 

First stop Penguin, named for the cute visitors that have made it home. No we  will not see real ones because it’s not dark but there are lots of them in the street. Even the bins have a penguin theme.

Take a seat

   
There was a tardis to take you to other worlds.It was the local readers street library full of books to wisk you away.
Next stop is the historical town Stanley. It is known for its buildings from the 1800’s. Many of the cottages are now holiday accommodation or have now found new roles as businesses.




Stanley faces Bass Strait and is backed against a huge rock bluff called the “Nut”. It is a volcanic plug. Now the easy way to get to its flat top is the cable car.

The easy way!
The other way…..

Today it’s blowing a gale so the only other option is to go up the strenuous, steep path. Guess what you are doing! Nuts up on the “Nut”. It’s a bit like our drive on steroids,just at a 45 degree angle and half a kilometre…… but you can do it.


Well get those feet ready……..another day of exploring tomorrow.    Sneakers might be good….

Tashkent

Tashkent was hit by a massive earthquake in 1966. 80 percent of the city was destroyed.

Earthquake memorial

 

As most people lived in compounds at that time, only 10 people were declared dead but there were many injuries. The Soviet came in with other neighbouring countries to help the people. Architecture changed in the city to medium and high rise. There is still a section of the ‘old city’ but now high rise dominates the skyline with more modern styles.

 

Amir Timur

There are two parts of the old city locals feel are important. The first is  Khartoum-Imam square that contains the Kukeldash  Madrasah ,Barack Khan Madrasah , Tilly’s Sheikh Mosque and Kaffee Shashi Mausoleum. It dates back 2000 years.

Modern local mosque.
Inside the local mosque with wooden carvings.

The Madrasah was a day school and one was for the wealthy only…..first private school? Now the Barack Khan Madrasah is a Quran museum. One book dates back to 644- 656 and was written by Caliph Oscan from the prophet Mohammad, and is considered one of the oldest in existence. The pages were thick and the writing large in a red coloured ink of pomegranate juice,ash and wool oil. It was very clear but of course I couldn’t read it. I don’t think you could either…..our early Arabic is a bit rusty .

Chorsu bazaar

Naturally the second important place is the bazaar for the weekly shop. You can even go for your weekly dose of Plov so you don’t have to cook it or any of the other favoured fast food like dumplings or Samsos( it’s like a pie).

The bazaar under the dome
The tomatoes taste as good as they look!
Yellow and orange carrots.
The weekly shop
Green radish
Plov for lunch

 

Fast food centre
Dried fish

Meat anyone…no it’s not refrigerated.

 

 

Material by the bolt or just a metre or two

 

It’s been a long morning
Subway routes

Subways in some countries are plain but here in Tashkent many have decorated ceilings or walls. Let’s investigate. It costs 1400 som…..about 18c au.to travel on a very fast system.  



 
 
Guess what , look it’s a train museum.

Yes I know, trains again but Mike does love them.
The first step is sooooo high

Mmmmmmm interesting

Mmmmmmm interesting…

I know you can’t wait to see the old trains.  It was strange going through security just to get into the train station…There are two main stations, north and south…I thought it was a bit boring inside, how about you?Just a pretty face?

Central station

   

The coffee is good.

Back we go to the group to see a few more sights before we head for the airport. A German immigrant way back in the day set up craftsmen workshop to promote Uzbekistan crafts. His rather ornate and unique house is now a museum for some of the crafts.  

   

    Some of the hand embroidered textiles are magnificent. The stitches are so fine.

How about these shoes
Musical craftsmen

A Christian church for a change. It is impressive.

The Catholic Church of Tashkent

     
Next stop a memorial to World War 2. 600,000 soldiers did not return and all their names are written on brass sheets. 

The war memorial
Looking for relatives
The mother who waits

   Not far away is the Independence Square celebrating Uzbekistan gaining its independence from the Soviet Union after years of being controlled by one power or another.

 

From here there are two more sights Tashkent people like to share. The first is a memorial to 20 poets who demanded independence and were killed by the KGB with the largest telecommunications tower in Central Asia in the background.

In memory

 

Now the other thing closest to every Uzbek heart is Plov, a type of pilaf. Naturally you need to go to the Plov centre. Wow that is one bug cauldron….but watch out for them lifting the burning wood out.

The bread…
The cauldron
The fire
The Plov
One more stir
Serve up
Next serve

Before I leave for the plane….just a few fun sights you may have missed. Overall this has been my favourite country. The people are friendly. Council workers survive on $252 a month and the average wage is $472 a month so multigenerational living and buying in bulk makes sense. Food and public transport is cheap. PS. Some toilets you need to take deep breaths and a jug of water before entering 😁🤣😂

Look at those teeth
No broccoli here
The perfect biscuit gift
Karaoke anyone
Xayr. Salomat bo'ling

Goodbye for now.

 

We are going to Tashkent…..but first

Today we head for the last city on the Silk Road we will be visiting but first we will see a few more important sites in Samarkand. Amir Timur is revered as a wonderful leader in Central Asia and he certainly influenced a huge area through either trade or conquering the population.

Amir Timur’s area

It extended to India,Africa, Turkey and even into Europe.He is buried in Samarkand and being prepared even had built his own mausoleum. He had built another but this was the most convenient one at the time. 7 members of his family and his teacher are all buried together.

The teacher with a horse tail suspenses above to show his wisdom.

 

Timur’s general’s mausoleum

Main entrance gate

Tiles on inside

Back of building showing before restoration.

Walls of old city

Cemeteries are always interesting but perhaps not as ornate as the Shohi-Zinfandel Necropolis. This is located on the Afrosiab mountain. This was the original site of the old Samarkand city. In some places the old city wall can be seen. The area dates back to XI,XIV and XIX centuries AD. Some of the tile work on the mausoleums are amazing especially when you think vegetable dyes with ash would have been used to colour many of them.

Entrance

36 steep stairs to first mausoleum.

A moment of prayer

     

 

   

After the earthquake before restoration

 

Friendly tourist police always ready to help hapless tourists.

 

Mirzo  Ulugbek was Timur’s grandson but was more interested in science, education and sorting out a workable financial system for his people than conquering areas.  Apart from the schools he set up that taught maths,science and religion, he set up an observatory. With this, he proved the sun was the centre of our solar system. Not bad for 1400’sAD.

Let’s have a quick look at his museum.Unfortunately, when Ulugbek wanted to share his studies, he was killed by his son as his ideas were considered inflammatory.

Pegasus as described as a star grouping

Coins introduced as a currency for trade

Musical instruments of XIV AD

Remains of sextant used to study the stars.

Rest time. We are driving to Tashkent.The land is fairly flat with different types of agriculture depending on availability of irrigation. The road is just like those around us….a bit rough with a few pot holes. It is interesting to see farmers still using carts pulled by donkeys.Sorry I wasn’t quick enough to take a snapshot of the donkeys or camels we saw. Did you get some?

Stork nests

Finally we are here. It has been a long day. Dinner  and bed so you are all ready tomorrow.

 

To Samarkand

You are nearly at the end of the Stans part of the Silk Road. Was it what you expected?  The fashion show was interesting as it was a mix of  traditional and western style dress. No I didn’t buy anything and I don’t think you would swan around the shops in any of the coats either.

Traditional dance costume
Dancers

Today we are leaving the Bukhara province and entering the Qashqadaryo province and travelling across the steppes. Definitely no crops here ……but great as camel food.

Camels! I see camels. They are tethered as they are close to the road . I think they are moved around to eat the remaining grass in the adjoining field.

Been anywhere exciting lately?

Train tracks!

Where is the train?
Bus stop?
The piles of mud walls are the remains of an old city wall

During the Soviet period train tracks were laid to link different areas of Uzbekistan. This means better movement of goods for both the local people and for exports. Uzbekistan as a result is one of the richer Stan country groups.

Next stop , apart from the ‘happy’ stops, is Shakhrisabz. This was an important stop on the Silk Road as it was before the Steppes or first stop after them. It was founded over 2700 years ago. The conqueror Timur built a summer palace ,Koba Caravanserai, here.

All but part of the main gates was destroyed in a huge earthquake.

 

Tile work

Floor tiles
Suggested appearance of summer palace
Timur

It was huge and evidence of the power and wealth of Timur.  139 rooms , entertainment areas and service areas occupied the site……this is what you get when you conquer people, take their wealth and get a few thousand slaves to do your bidding.

Timur’s eldest son was killed in battle and Timur built a mausoleum  to show his grief. The tile work is amazing. 

 

Tree planted in 1342

 

 

 

Pilgrim accommodation

 

The rolls madam?

Too tired to walk around the complex( it has hotels and is a holiday spot)? Take an electric bus!

It has been a long day in the bus hasn’t it but we are finally here and just in time for the light show on the main square.   

Did you sleep well? I did. It’s time to go back to the square and explore the buildings. They were built in the 15th and  17th centuries. AD. Ami Temur built the first with a huge library. Ulugbek was one of Timur’s grandsons. He was a leader and scholar and built the 17th Century buildings.The middle building was never finished  as Ulugbek , was killed.  Both leaders believed in education in the sciences and maths as well as the Quran.All the buildings were designed as teaching and living sites for students. Students attended four days a week for 6 months at a time. Each course lasted 4 years and teachers were encouraged to adapt.

Inside Sher-Dor Madresh ( building on right)

 

 

Tillya-Kori Madresah ( middle building)

Ulugbek-Madrasah

   

 

Print showing students studying

 
As you can see, each building has a central courtyard, I really liked sitting there. It is peaceful and you could imagine the students relaxing after a day of study with their friends.Now the class areas are places with souvenirs for tourists. I hoped you bargained for those scarves you bought.

Last mosque for the day,Bibi khanyi mosque. 

Section of building not renovated after the earthquake.


A bazaar always has a vibrant atmosphere. Let’s do a quick visit and then find a coffee shop. Sound like a plan, yes?

 

   


Samarkand was known for its paper making in ancient times. The paper is still made from the bark of the mulberry tree. Now that is value added….you get silk from the cocoons on the trees and paper from the bark. I am sure they found a use for the wood too. A quick visit to the paper centre…..then a rest till dinner. I know you are suffering overload after all the information we have been given. I am quite confused myself as to which madrasah is which now.

Cars parked 3 deep on main road.
1.Peel the bark off soaked wood
2.Boil for 10 hours till mush
3.Mushy strings
4.Pulp
A water wheel makes the levers pound the pulp
5.Use a screen to pick up pulp, press, and dry. Polish with a flat stone
Dry the paper

We were to visit the mausoleum of Timur called the Gur Emir but the cars are parked 3 deep on the main road as it’s Friday prayer time, A night visit showed how beautiful it is…..perhaps a day visit before we start to Tashkent, what do you think? Till then.

Gur Emir
Gur Emir inside.

 

Bukhara, Uzbekistan

Negotiating the passport control was somewhat tricky at the Tajikistan end. We were lucky the guide for the other group was hovering. One official directed us to go to a window but there was no one there and a mass of locals trying to get their stamp. In the end the guide took all 18 passports and had them stamped. No facial check necessary.

Crop stacked in bags
The harvest

From the border to Bukhara , is agricultural land. Unlike Tajikistan,the road is free of rubbish and the area is more highly populated. An irrigation system has been put in place allowing better crop yield.

Cabbages
Solar farm
You can choose from anything that is hanging up Madam, which meat do you want.
Donkey power . Sometimes the old way is the only way to get produce.
Cotton picking Workers a like a little army moving down the rows.
A camel caravan stop. Camels could only travel 50 km in a day so this was the distance between them. It would have provided food for man and beast as well as accommodation.

Bukhara is made up of beautiful buildings used for teaching and for religious ceremonies. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times in its 2500 year history.

Reconstruction of one of 12 gates in city wall

The old city is easy to walk around and is a photographers’ idea of heaven. I have been having fun trying different angles. May I share some of your photos as I don’t think some of mine are very good? Much photographed is the Poi Kalan and Kalon Minaret. These have survived without being destroyed by the invasion because of the patterns and workmanship in  their creation. 

Mid-Arab Madrasah

Kalan mosques
Kalan Mosque entrance

Inside

   

Pray towards Mecca
By night

 

A hat for the newly married.

Within the complex of buildings there are many nooks and crannies. These are filled with stores selling textiles, toys, jewellery ,knives and carpets. I had fun looking but didn’t buy much.
I saw you eyeing off the magic lamps. I rubbed all of them but no genies appeared for me. No luck for you either?

Knotting the design strand by strand

As it was in the past, some crafts people have set up small workshops. You can browse their work and purchase if you wish. A flying carpet will take a year for two girls to knot  in silk so expect to pay $60,000. Too expensive, they do have cheaper. Girls are paid by the number of knots they do,

 

Perhaps you would like a brass plate. Which design and shape?

   

Punching a design into the metal.

I need some sharp craft scissors…..a knife for you perhaps.

   

Knives or scissors?

A miniature watercolour  may be more your style. You can buy the work of a student or an experienced artist. More detail in design and colour…..about $50 but you can negotiate.

Need a small watercolour. They don’t take up much room in your suitcase.
A taxi to help you take your purchases.
Puppet construction stages.

Did you love the puppets? Weren’t their faces so cute?

A family group, 4 wives, 32 concubines,and other household members

    
Enough retail therapy!  Now it’s time for a culture fix.You are looking at buildings that existed centuries before Christ so AD.    

 

House number
Divan-Beghi Khanaka
Toni Zargaron trade domes

Remains of the bath house to get rid of the camel smell.
Nugai Caravanserais ( hotel for you and your camel)
Mausoleum of Chatham Ayub

If you are the boss or rich, you can afford a mausoleum for you and your sons. No girls allowed…..you sold them off oops..married them off.

Mausoleum of the Samanid

 
Thirsty? Let’s have some freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. You could have a camel ride too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This my best side so leave me alone


One  father was devoted to his daughters. He had four. Girls were not educated normally but he built the first school for them with four minarets. Other girls were educated here as well.

Chor Minor Madrassh
Bolo Hauz mosque

   

One more main building….it’s like a fortress and belonged to an Omir with four wives and 32 concubines. You deserve a rest….so do I. I am in information overload. 

 







There is a dance and fashion show tonight . We are leaving at eight in the morning . Get packed. I will see you later.

 

Still in Tajikistan

How are you coping with the dust…..it certainly upsets everyone’s hay fever.

From Khujand we are travelling to Ura-Tyube.

Dust at sunrise over the lake

See the dust in the air at sunrise over the lake. We are visiting a reconstruction of a fortress that used to protect the city Istaravshan in a previous time. Quite impressive, isn’t?

Mug Teppe

 

 

 


Istaravshan withFan mountains

Don’t get comfortable as the next stop is just a few kilometres away. It is an original mosque and teaching area. It ceiling is beautifully decorated with painted designs.

Shohi-Zinda

   


There is a building being constructed next door. No safety precautions needed here. The brick layer and his helper have no harnesses as they hang off the building.

This region is known for its craftsmanship.Quick, out of the bus as we are going to inspect the knives…..don’t get any ideas…the guide will loosen up I’m sure.

 

 

Need a special design?
Done!

Through the tunnel. It is 4.5 kilometres long. You don’t want to breakdown as there is no stopping places or ventilation. Breathe deep and absorb those fumes, not. 

 

Village compounds

 

Istiklol Tunnel

Wow aren’t the Fan mountains beautiful. Don’t look down, there is not much space between us and the edge of the roads. It is a little scary when the driver decides to overtake other vehicles. 

Varzob Gorge

   

That silver line is the road!

 


Hurrah, we survived and here we are in Dushanbe.This is the capital of Tajikistan. Dushanbe means Monday and was named for the market that was held on that day. A quick look at the streetscape as we drive by.


 

 

Parliament house

Dinner is in a traditional restaurant. Are you impressed with the decor….. I was.

At last we are going to go for a walk in a park….for a short time. Look the lights are in both geometric and bird shapes. They will be impressive at night……and yes ,the air is full of dust.

The Library


The blinded poet, Rudaki



Sorry, it’s museum time again. This one contains a collection from the Bronze Age. Some of the jewellery found in burial caskets from the wealthy show remarkable skill and evidence of trading with other groups especially the shell jewellery.

Excavation of the sleeping Buddha


   

Still no genie
Inside the mosque teaching area.
Hissar fortress.

Yes ,believe it or not, this 18th Century Hissar Fort is mostly original. It is a huge complex.

 

Teaching compartments

From the parapet looking at the mosque

During the Soviet period, the ‘hotel’ part of the complex was used to store crops so much of the structure has been gradually destroyed. The mosque and study area is original. Each compartment would have been used for 3 students.Obviously the inside of the fortress has lost the original buildings but caravan travellers of the Silk Road would have seen soldiers and animals as well as the official they needed to see. The bazaar would have occupied what is now the wedding walk area.

The musicians
The dancers
The couple

Marriage requires certificates from lots of different groups including a doctor, a reception, boys night, girls night venues, music and food suppliers showing numbers of people( you can have a maximum of 150), and an application for the civil ceremony and religious ceremony.The government then recognises you are married.

There are 3 couples. No smiles for the wedding photos? Marshmallow dresses are the go.They don’t know each other and will only have spoken a few times before the ceremony. It is accepted that the decision of your parents is best.

So who pays for what ?
The grooms family pays :

  • parents for the bride
  • the boys night(200 people or less) , and the
  • wedding celebration (3 hours at an approved venue) with music
  • Certificates showing military service, doctor etc

The. bride’s family pays

  • for the food to entertain up to 150 women who will come and check out the wedding presents
  • at least 40 outfits that she will change into to show the wealth and prestige she is bringing to the grooms family. Think constant fashion show for 40 days.

The lights at night are beautiful.

 

Back through the tunnel to Penjikent

 


Sheep heading back to the village

Natures refrigerator

Water from the mountain drips down cooling the drinks.

You thought that was just a pile of dirt didn’t you?

I did too but it is the ruins of the great city of Penjikent. Buildings were made of mud and straw.

Mud and straw and still used today sometimes.
A reconstruction
The real thing

Can you make out part of a figure

Originally they were covered with carvings and painted stories of the time similar to Pompeii. This city was attacked by Arabs and much of the art destroyed as it depicted animals and humans which is not in accordance with Islamic ideas.A quick, I promise, visit to another museum then off to the hotel and dinner.

A skeleton in a funeral pot.


Tajikistan is a much more traditional country than any of the states we have visited so far. Men and women have clearly marked roles. For women it is anything to do with food,children or the house.

A young girl sweeps in front of her house

Men are expected to provide a house and support their family.This includes looking after the parents by the oldest male and making sure all the males in the family have a house. The government owns the land but people own the houses on the land and pay a tax to the government. Of the Stans we have visited, this one appears to have great ideas but then doesn’t take care or maintain them. Pollution seems to be a problem and rubbish is just thrown everywhere, even in historically important areas. What do you think?

Charades to explain an ailment

How do you explain you need medicine to stop a tummy upset when you can’t speak  the local language.

Tomorrow a new country.

One country to another….

But only for the day while we travel to Tajikistan

It is bedlam at the border. Guides are not allowed to cross with you . They wave goodbye,tell you they will miss you and send you on your way. The distance between Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan is not much but two siblings Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan have had a falling out so you have to travel through the top part of Uzbekistan.

Need to change money, eat buy a gift, you can do all of these just through the border crossing. Once you and the guide have found each other, it’s back on the bus and off again, You could not negotiate the travel without a guide as English is limited here and I don’t know about you, but my Russian is nonexistent.

tandyr (clay oven)

Although agriculture is the main industry,the land is dry and flat. Most of the harvest has been completed. Many of these are harvested by hand with scythes like the good old days before machines. A tractor just bundles it up and then is used to plough the field.

Women were sweeping along the roadside. They don’t seem to be improving the condition of the road, the amount of rubbish or reducing the dust.

Dust seems to hang in the air. That’s not bad photography, it is actually dust making the sky appear hazy. Excuse me…just got to blow my nose again…..,…..many of us now have hay fever. You seem okay.

 

 


Next border at Kyzyl-Bel.
This one appears empty. Bags out. Bye driver and guide. Through one side….walk……through next passport control. Get the stamp, show the guard at the gate and meet your next guide. Load the bags, let’s go to Khujand . You are now in Tajikistan.

Historical museum.

The doors are spectacular

Khujand is the second largest city in Tajikistan. We are going to see a  mausoleum to a poet and ruler of the region,Sheikh Muslihiddin and the historical museum.It is like a fortress. It is an impressive building. The ruins of the original building are at the back of the reconstructed fortress.

Mosaics of Alexander the Great

Costumes

Inside a newlywed room. The red box is a baby cradle No nappys are used . There is a hole in the cradle and a small funnel like instrument. Clever for pee but what about the other?

Gardens near the museum, favoured by brides for those special photos. They were queued up.

I need you to come now!

The bazaar was colourful. People buy large quantities for their multigenerational household. A boy trolleys it to your car….all umpteen kilos. We leaving. Sorry no time for more photos.

Local mosque call to prayer

Come Join us on our travels!