Last morning in Oslo so we decided a quick visit to the Resistance Museum was in order….I know ,I said no museums but it is a small one and then I promise coffee in the sun.The museum is in the Fortress.
Look you got a quick trip down memory lane . Norway was taken by surprise when Germany invaded in 1940. They were unprepared. Towns were bombed and destroyed. Fishing boats ( the Shetland Bus) took both the bullion and young men to Britain. They also carried supplies and messages back to Norway. These models show some of the events
Radios were the lifeblood of the community.
Books, chair legs and cameras hid the radios.
People used everything to conceal their radios.
Radios were detected by machines like this used by the Gestapo.
Conditions under occupation was one of resistance but staying under the notice of the Gestapo. Torture, imprisonment or death were the risk those who didn’t escape to England or Sweden took.
Teachers and the church leaders objected to the regime, Newspapers were suppressed but underground issues were printed in basements and handed out. Radios were banned but were hidden in unusual ways so people could continue to know what was happening.
Microdots became a new technology.
Overall I think the museum was interesting but I didn’t walk out feeling that I knew the day to day affect on the people during occupation. This was particularly important as so many resistance fighters would have been tortured and executed here in the Fortress.
Okay you have earned your coffee. Let’s sit in the sun and then walk back via the harbour.
I am sorry you are getting two days in one. Yesterday we left the ship and because of maintenance work on the train line, caught the bus to Voss. It was very entertaining. Two pensioners and a bus load of teenagers all singing. We think they were heading off on a hiking excursion. The bus and train trip was very scenic….waterways and mountains.
We arrived at 7.14pm
Guess what , we are not going to any of the many museums here….and there some amazing Viking and maritime ones but we have been. Sorry , you don’t remember…. I will show you the photos next time I see you. Let’s walk around the city and see some of the beautiful buildings instead.
The Opera and Ballet centre has a roof with multiple levels.You can climb right to the top and see views of the city.
This sculpture is in front of the Opera centre.
Oslo is known as the Tiger city. In the past it was named this in reference to the struggle between the country and the city ,represented as a safe horse and a dangerous tiger respectively.
Streetscapes
As we are visitors, we don’t know who these wonderful statues represent so I thought it was a fabulous idea to make up a story about them. I am not so sure you agreed with my interpretations.
The fortress.
Akershus Festning is a 700 year old fortress. You can walk around the walls and spend the whole day looking at the exhibits , but I did promise no museums .Coffee instead?
You need to rest your feet….the cobblestones are making them tired…all right we will head back but some interesting sights on the way.
Some very patriotic French themed toilets?
No brotherly love because Fraternity was out of order.
The brick work on this building was fantastic.
Rest now and we will go out again in a bit or you may like to experience the latest craze..floating saunas. Catch you tomorrow.
No arguing, we have been to Bergen. Yes I know it was a while ago and it’s raining , but put your big person pants on and let’s go. We are going in the bus for awhile so you shouldn’t get too wet. When people think of Bergen , they think of the iconic shot of the Bryggen.
This was built over to house fish merchants and their workers. 2000 men( women were not allowed) lived in the building. It is the only German overseas Hanseatic Office in the world remaining. The buildings were built on fill so they have settled giving them a slightly tipsy look. The logs used as foundations are rotting which doesn’t help. Huge renovations to maintain these is often necessary. Food was cooked in the small stone buildings because of the fire risk.
With it being a busy trading post, you would expect defence. There is, Bergenhus Fortress. Now you don’t want to waste materials.The Royal Norway Palace was once on this site . Only Rosenkrantz tower and Håkon’s Hall remain of this 1200’s architecture.. They were absorbed into sections of the garrison built in the 1500’s. Why didn’t we go to the museum? One ,its Sunday, so most things are closed and two we are verrry wet and cold so will head back to the ship soon.
The garrison was only used in defence once. The British king, Charles 11 had made a deal with the Norwegian king, Fredrick 111.The British would attack the Dutch East India fleet and share the loot. Norway was considered neutral. The message didn’t reach the garrison. When the British fired on the Dutch, the garrison fired on the British to retain neutrality. Boats sank and it was a big disaster
Houses in most of Bergen are wood. Fire can be a problem especially if your houses are close together with small alley ways between. Solution, make the road wider. The colour of your house used to show your wealth. Poor had red from the cod or whale oil and yellow were middle class could they could afford ochre. White meant you had made it because you could afford zinc. Only the side people could see was painted because you didn’t want to waste money unnecessarily 😀. Now the colours mean what you liked at the paint store.
Naturally there are some lovely old and modern buildings.
Weren’t some of the graffiti drawings cute? Some old buildings have been designated as graffiti areas.
And some non graffiti art……
Time to go dry clothes and pack. Bags go out tonight ready to disembark tomorrow morning. We are off to the train to Oslo.
Geiranger is a tiny town at the end of a narrow 15 km. fjord. It is known as a beautiful area for both tourists from overseas and Norwegians ( there were lots of camper vans ) with popular hiking areas, The town normally has 200 inhabitants, two hotels and lots of holiday cabins on the surrounding slopes……….keep this in mind for your next holiday.
We are going to take the waterfall trail to see the main waterfalls . Put on your hiking shoes. Here is the map
Don’t freak out. We will take the bus to Storsæterfossen but we will walk up the section to the Fjord centre. I am sure you noticed that the mountains are quite steep so to get out of the fjord there are a series of hairpin bends. This is quite tricky for a bus as the road is not super wide……lots of backing and fiddling if a car comes the other way,
On route we will stop for a few scenic shots.
The waterfall starts way up the top of the mountain behind the town from a glacier. From here it flows with great force down,cutting a path through the granite rocks.
Stunning country isn’t it? Look at the glacier and the lake…. I know it’s just the end of summer but the water is freezing , so no swimming.
Back now down that winding road.
Next stop the lookout at Eagles Bend. Did you like the story concerning the trolls? Viking s thought trolls were small invisible creatures who helped you .With Christianity, they became big strong mean creatures to be avoided or used as a threat. Now they are benevolent creatures trapped inside rocks who are great for tourism.
The bales of hay in their white wrappings are called troll marshmallows. Geiranger fjord from Eagle Bend is amazing.
The waterfall to the right is called the Seven sisters . The story goes that a farmer had seven daughters. A suitor came and asked one to marry him. She agreed. He celebrated by getting drunk and forgetting which sister he had asked. He repeated it six more times and the waterfall is the tears of the sisters. Opposite is the waterfall called the Suitor. Can you see his bottle?
Back to town. Let’s check out the church and walk to the Norsk Fjord centre.
There are a few stairs.
You have arrived! Have a seat.
Now aren’t you glad we walked up by the road and down by the stairs.😀😂🤣😅
Some fun sights…
Would you like a talking car? Think complaints like :it’s dark or raining , why are you making me leave my garage, the groceries are too heavy, I don’t want to go to Aunties…my tyres hurt, the roads too hot…why….l Tomorrow is our last day on the ship then the bus and train to Oslo.
Narvik, like most places in Norway was bombed during World War 11. Unlike many places though, Narvik was strategically important to both sides. Control of the town was an advantage .It is the sea port for the train from Kiruna in Sweden where iron ore is prepared for shipping. Iron ore is vital for the manufacture of armaments and war materials. Both Germany and the Allies wanted access. The battle for Narvik is well documented in the war museum complete with models.
There are many examples of both German and Allied uniforms, arms and Norwegian equipment. Both sides of the experience for soldiers is also revealed because the museum was originally set up by the Red Cross to educate children.
Norway did not have a trained army. They had a reserve force that served as guards for the borders. They were farmers and fishermen who were used to the harsh Norwegian conditions but not to the rigours of warfare. They fought bravely but ultimately were defeated. Sweden had continued to allow German troops to be transported via the train. Little was displayed about the true impact on those civilians who had been unable to leave. Many were forced to work in labour camps or fish factories. This included teenagers as young as 13 or14. Houses were destroyed and many killed by bombing.
Now you are filled with somber thoughts, let’s look as the Peace monument and other parts of the town.
I think this lady is grumpy because there are children dancing around naked and there is a woman and her child playing in the fountain. Goodness me , what is the world coming to😂😅😂🤣
There are a few modern buildings like this Scandic hotel but generally houses are similar to others in Norway.
Many houses were flat pack houses supplied by Sweden( guilt payment for all those German troop transported). As they retreated, Germans destroyed everything. It was the middle of winter so people had no food or shelter.
Duplexes are different here. Houses are joined at any one of 3 walls and can be painted different colours.Front doors can be on another side, same or alternate side.
At the beginning of the day we were told how wonderful the view was from the top of the local ski field. Let’s go , it can’t be far to the cable car… Are we going the right way? Yes?
Just up there to the road.
The wildflowers are pretty.
Now at the road….follow it up and to the right. We are here!
It only took an hour.
The view was worth the walk!
It was quicker going down.
A few more sights from Narvik.
Memorial to fishermen who died or helped Norwegians and allies in the war.
A sunset…sort of….remember the sun is only moving down towards the horizon and then there is a twilight. Wake up! It’s morning….okay it’s early morning.
Quiet day today….you can relax and look at the beautiful scenery along the Norwegian Inside passage or Skagerrak coast.
Legend speaks of Torghatten being formed when the troll Hestmannen shot an arrow after Lekamøya . She rejected him and ran. Seeing this, the troll king in Mount Sømnafjellet threw his hat between them . It formed a hole just as the sun rose and everyone was turned to stone.
Relax…ready for another exciting adventure tomorrow.
Today we are going to explore the Lofoten Islands…..not all of them because there are heaps.
You used to only access different islands by boat but now there are bridges and a tunnel. The first thing you notice is……how bright green everything looks and there are flat areas for farming. The Vikings must have breathed a sigh of relief to find such a great place to settle. Each island has small villages. We are moored near Leknes.
It’s raining again. You are a traveller so raincoat on and then to the bus. We head through the countryside. It is beautiful with bright green fields edged by the soaring mountains. The holdings are small but there is livestock and some crops. Winters are milder here….0 degrees Celsius but you still get snow . Animals are wintered inside so you wouldn’t want thousands. In saying that,there are 24,000 people and 26,000 sheep.
Finally after crossing a few bridges and passing some villages, we arrive in the village of Henningsvaær. Fishing and tourism are the main industries though we did notice a few coffee shops.
Cod is considered a delicacy here….you can eat it fresh, dried as a snack ( like jerky) or soak it for 5 days or so and make fish stew. I am sure you can’t wait to try it.
I did but the cafe was closed.
Look at this sign. It’s too wet today but perhaps another time. You climb up the mountain to the top rock and then you leap across to the other and climb down, if you make it. It’s not an extreme sport I will try , but you?
Here is where the variation happens. We are to return to the ship by boat to see the iconic red houses along the fjords. Not going to happen….it’s rainy and windy. I know you are disappointed but we will bus back(it’s getting late) make a mad dash to collect tickets and be ready to go on the tour to the Viking museum. Oh they are using tenders now so factor that in as well.No pressure.
Success…..we are on our way to the Viking Museum. A farmer found the remains of a long house on his farm. When archeologists uncovered the long house, it was 83metres long and 12 metres wide. It had belonged to an important chieftain.
It has been used to make a recreation of the long house and illustrate what is known about the Vikings. Remember it was not all pillage ,they settled , farmed and assimilated into a population.
I really liked the museum ,especially the section where the minions worked. They had so many crafts in one section.
Next to it was the entrance and then the main hall.
Did you enjoy the food? I don’t love dried meats or barley bread but it is better than cod jerky or barley soup. The mead gave me a buzz….I noticed you drank all yours too. The different sounds from the 3 instruments made for interesting music. I recognised the flute and the Lur but not the small ball flute.
I was surprised how warm the fire made the room but with a metre wide turf walls and roof , I guess you would expect it.. The guide told us how smoky it would be with a birch wood fire. Add the smell of the animals further down the building, the smell of the hides and wool being tanned or dyed….it must have been pungent.
Tired? Well , tomorrow shouldn’t be quite as hectic. Let’s hope it’s fine.
Yes it’s raining but it’s a new city so get that raincoat on and let’s go.Tromsø is the biggest city in the north. According to the people of Tromsø everything is the most north in Norway:University, hospital, cathedral, planetarium, botanical garden….and anything else you may need. It has about 77,000 people depending on the time of year.The bus ride through the city gave us an overview especially as its raining.
If you look at the left side and you will see a ski jump…..no we are not going. The planetarium is on the right side and we are going to watch a film on the Northern lights. You can’t see them at present as it’s summer. Instead, you are going to see a film
They were stunning . The seats reclined so I half think many of the guests may have dozed a little. The drive through the city showed a mix of the original beautiful old wooden buildings and the more modern apartments. These are needed to accommodate the growing population.
The white impressive building is a new cathedral. It’s spectacular and known as the Arctic Cathedral and concert hall but the old cathedral is special as a peaceful retreat.
The library is a beautiful glass structure and as usual there are some fun sights and signs.
Now we are going to a museum……not a maritime museum though you haven’t been to one in ages….
I will give you some clues…..
They are unusual looking.
Have odd habits, You should keep your distance
Are identified by having a tail.
Don’t accept anything from them
They can be verrrry tall.
Norse myths include many different groups based on an Ash tree. Within the groups are mythical creatures ,including trolls. Trolls are used to describe different geological and geographic locations. Many of these creatures were described in books by Theodore Kittelson and the play Peer Gynt has the theme of being yourself whether troll or man.
There is a sea troll in this group of islands. Can you find him….he is partial to crabs and remember you are looking at the geographic layout of the islands. Now do you know these trolls.
Tomorrow we have two excursions so off to sleep. You will need lots of energy.
Hello from the most northernmost land in Europe. When we opened the window this morning,it was sooooo foggy. I thought we were going to walk around in the fog. Do you remember our visit here in 2010?This will jog your memory.
Super foggy ,right. It was eerie especially just hearing the sound of water and not seeing it. So off we go to Nordkapp. The scenery is beautiful isn’t. Look reindeer. This is where all the reindeer of the Finmark municipality come to summer pasture.
Knivskjellodden is technically the most northern land by a few metres but you have to hike there as there are no roads. Unfortunately,or fortunately, as it takes several hours, the ship won’t wait so Nordskapp will have to do. Nordskapp has quite a history told in cute dioramas. It was named North Cape by a navigator on the 1553 expedition to discover a northern passage to China, it was unsuccessful.
These gentlemen are the first tourists to visit. The gentleman with the blue coat is an Italian scientist,writer and priest in 1664. Behind him in 1795 is a French Prince Louis Phillipe of Orleans. With his entourage on the left is King Chulalongkorn of Siam in 1907.
These people are visiting in 1873 with King Oscar 11 of Norway. Now they are probably slightly exhausted because they have just climbed up from the bottom of the cliff a kilometre away at a place called Hornvika.
You would have to be keen. Look at the path.
Within the Nordskapp area is a restaurant, gift shop,cinema with a film showing four seasons at Nordskapp ,displays and a chapel. The last one has beautiful music playing and is a peaceful place to sit awhile.
The real event is outside.
The view is fabulous. Sorry no champagne and not even time for coffee.
Honningsvåg itself was destroyed by the Germans as they retreated in 1944. When the town was rebuilt, one style of wooden house was chosen so all the houses of that time look the same, just different colours.There are a few more modern buildings now.
Fishing is still the main industry although tourism is also important. Did you know it takes 8-10 weeks to dry fish but they can then last for 10 or more years. Norwegians eat them as a snack. Not sure that it is one I would like. Is it to your taste? These buildings are used by the fishermen and were built in the original style of the area.
There is a museum..,,,but we are not visiting….sorry no time. I can hear you breathing a sigh of relief. At present there is a street art made from recycled sea waste being displayed. Of course there are some great statues and trolls and time for real coffee.
Now you know I am married to a train fanatic so no trip is complete without a train journey. Today we caught the local train from Trondheim to Hamar and then a fast train from Hamar to Oslo Airport. It was actually snowing as we left Trondheim. Train travel is relaxing for yours truly as there is no map wrangling to check the gps is really telling you the best route and you get to see the countryside.
Norway in winter is just all those Xmas .Snow scene cards……lots of snow,bare trees well you get the picture. The houses are mainly wood construction and generally are red, mustard or white.If you don’t remember borrow The American version of Girl with the Dragon Tattoo or watch SBS on demand Lilyhammer series. Enough babbling I took lots of photos so you can make your own mind up.
Ps knitting count: Mike’s socks completed( took awhile) and 3 baby beanies. Tomorrow we fly to Dublin so see you in Ireland.
Leaving the ship in a practical heatwave of -3 degrees, we trudged to the hotel to deposit our bags. There was no wind, so although it is cold it feels just a bit colder than our winters….you do need the down jacket,scarf ,hat and gloves. We headed up through the oldest parts of the city to the fortress. Old warehouses and workshops once part of a thriving ship building and repair industry have now been converted to restaurants,shops and residences. New buildings have been added but are sympathetic in design.
Above the harbour,high on a hill is the Fortress. This was built in 1691 and has withstood many sieges. If the steep hill didn’t defeat you, ( it was difficult for cars let alone us poor unfit pedestrians), then its granite stone walls and metal gates might cause you to rethink your battle plans. It has been used by military continuously up until the end of World War 2. The Germans used it particularly for dealing with Norwegian Resistance members.
Below the fortress was a park. The soccer oval has been converted to something else.
Little children do need exercise. These preschoolers were out for a walk, all happily hanging on to circles on a rope.
You will never guess where we went next…..the railway,no, the harbour……..you are close……yes, the Maritime museum. It is tiny being in a building that was once the first jail for criminals and slaves. It then became the custom house , a warehouse and other roles until its present role.
Norway has had such a history bound to the sea and trade.
The street scape is a mixture of old and new. The oldest building is Stittgarden which was a royal residence. Sculptures are an important component of the streets as is the use of lights in trees,windows and doorways.