Bodø-Ørnes-Nesna-Sandnessjøen-Brønnøysund-Rørvik

Today,like yesterday, is a day of short visits to ports….some only fifteen minutes, so I  am sorry I did not stir myself to don the layers and check them out. We did venture out in Brønnøysund. This towns claim to fame is that it geographically in the middle of Norway. They even have a stone sign in the middle of a beech grove……..well I believe they have. I saw the grove ,the walk to it and the sign that said it was there  , but it was raining and the ice was turning into an ice skating rink. Careless of me I know but no skates , no ability to use skates and a fear of a broken limb  kept me from the proof.

 

 

 

 

 

As in Australia, there are stories attached to some mountain ranges. Here the mountain range above appears to disappear in the mist. In summer there are 7 distinct waterfalls down the mountain and into the fjord. Opposite these is a single waterfall. The legend goes that a king had seven, of course beautiful, unmarried daughters. They were pursued by  a suitor and the king mistook them for trolls and turned them to stone. Now they will forever taunt their suitor from the other side of the fjord.

Here in Norway, the geographical line where you enter or leave the Artic Circle Is marked by a metal globe on a small rocky island. When we entered , we were blessed by the “God Njord” now as we leave , we are encouraged to have good health. This was to be achieved by a dose of cod fish oil and a teaspoon of  Akvivit, a type of alcohol. I am not sure which was supposed to give you the best health ,but I got to keep the teaspoon so all good. It wasn’t much of a sacrifice to drink the oil as I was dosed everyday as a child. Joy? Blahhhhhhh.

We are back to Trondheim tomorrow to check out the fortress for you.

 

 

Thanks for the comments as I wasn’t sure anybody was out there and I miss hearing from you.

Today was Tromsø, Finnsnes,Harstad, Risøyhamn, Sortland, Stokmarknes, Svolvær and Stamsund. In most cases , we were in port only 15-30 minutes. By the time you put the scarf,hat,gloves and coat on( the thermals are a permanent fixture), negotiate passengers leaving, and those who need a breath of fresh air , it’s time to get back onto the ship. We did get off at Harstad, Stockmarknes and Svolvær. But first the last of the Northern Lights for us as the clouds are now coming and we won’t be able to see them.

Sunrise was just beginning as we arrived in Harstad. As it was Sunday, everything was quiet.They have an amazing sea fountain that looks like a sail on a ship. Many expedition into the Artic and Antarctica started from this port.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stockmarnes is the birth place of Hurtigruten. It was started in 1893 by Richard With . He combined with other local sea captains and businessmen to create the postal, freight and passenger transport between the islands that make up this part of Norway. Local people still use the ships in Winter to go from Island to Island as the roads are often impassable with snowfalls and ice. Today there is a museum, the second Finnmarken ship and a university all linked with the Hurtigruten trademark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now I know you are curious about the ship so here is a whistle tour.

Vardø is a small town of a few thousand people.

We arrived at 4.00pm. The only people around were from the ship. -17degrees seems to keep people inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clear skies! We saw the Northern Lights. Looking with your eyes,you just see white streaks across the sky. Take a photo and magically colours appear.

 

 

 

Today we head for Hammerfest,the northern most town in Norway. I am sure it was named for some Viking who was able to break a block of wood with a single blow of his hand……😄. When we came a few years ago we visited both the Polar Bear museum and the Museum showing the reconstruction of the town in 1946. This time we just crunched through the snow and  enjoyed seeing the town in a different way.    

 

Ps. Don’t forget to let me know you are out there reading the blog  and what you like or I will just think I am being self indulgent . Leave a comment……or just say hello. The ship below  used to be in Australia as an accomodation ship for the LNG plant on Barrow Island and Mike piloted it.

   We arrived at Kirkenes through ice floes . The fog was forming little funnels above the ice. It was cold! Now I don’t know about you, but I  haven’t really the right clothes to go walking too far in -20 degree temperatures. It was a winter fairytale scene you see on Christmas cards.

We made it as far as the local supermarket for vital supplies , such as chocolate, and to see what they stocked. Most of the food, surprisingly was refrigerated. Mangoes were the same price as at home.Tomatoes were $2 a kg.

 

On the way to Northcape , the furthest land before the sea in the Artic circle, we visited Havøysund. This is a tiny fishing village. It was -13degrees and the moon was low in the sky. Although it looks light, sunrise will not be for another two hours and sunset will be at 2.30pm. A tunnel has been constructed Across the strait to link this island,called Finnland to the mainland.

 

 

From here we headed to Honningsvåg. This town was the site for a fish factory and also where the first tourists to Northcape landed. The tourist would then hike to the Cape. During World War 2 , Honningsvåg was bombed by the allies and then burnt to the ground by the retreating German troops. It was rebuilt and the evacuated inhabitants returned. There is a small museum explaining the history of the area back to its first settlement in Stone Age times.

 

 

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The museum and more.

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Last night we drank spiced Norwegian tea ( interesting), ate fish cakes ( rubbery) and waited in the freezing cold for the NorthernLights. At midnight , we gave up and took our frozen butts,fingers,feet and other bits to bed. Perhaps we will have more luck tonight, sighhhhhhhhhhhh. On the plus side, today we get to experience a lunar eclipse, where the moon turns pink and blue? , against the backdrop of the fjords so we can’t complain can we. ( Mike might but it is what it is). -5 degrees but feels like -13 at sunrise.  

On route we passes Finnsnes.This has grown in recent years and is now home to 5000 people. As it’s growth has been rapid, all the buildings are modern and reflect the industrial nature of the area.

 Tromso is the biggest of the Artic towns in Norway. Many students come to study at Universities here.It is a mixture of old and new . The oldest wooden  Cathedral is found on one side of the waterway and the modern”Artic“Cathedral is on the other. The modern buildings add interest to the cityscape being unusual shapes  often reflecting ice being layered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fail,fail,fail. I failed photographing the eclipse. But I did get a few ok shots showing the Artic Cathedral lit up.

 

Well it is 3 degrees Celsius but according to the weather man it  feels like -6 degrees. I’m with him! There is a strong wind blowing and the snow ( just a fine icy crust ) is blowing off the roofs. Mike is turning into an icicle, and we shiver as we walk past the people sitting outside with their frothy beers at bars and don’t talk about those ice cream eaters. Don’t they know it is cold! 

See, it is 9.00 am and some poor person is heading off to work. Oh he just has to do something about the ice on the window first. Sunrise was not until 9.15. You can see it starting behind the building.

We set off to see all the parts of Bergen we had not seen last time. It was pouring rain when we visited 7 years ago and I am sorry to say we were a bit wimpy and didn’t do the city justice. Bergen has allowed modern life to come into its historic city without letting its character change. Modern buildings have kept the sense of  timelessness and there is evidence of the old being renovated to adapt to the demands of modern life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Bryggen was the original merchant area. This was the first meeting place and toilet for the tenement buildings of the merchants opposite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are still artisan shops or sell goods specific to Norway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From here we walked around the fortress that was the seat of the ruler and government in the 1200’s. It was used for defence purpose up until 2001 when it was open to the public. The original foundations of the first buildings are either exposed  as stones or marked by hedges.

Now although cold, we ,your intrepid explorers, took the funicular to the highest point in Bergen. Despite the howling wind we took photos of the harbour and only then forced ourselves to take refuge in the cafe and drink hot chocolate laced with whipped cream…….for strengthening purposes only of course. We are now heading back to the hotel to collect our luggage and head to the ship. Stay poised  for the next instalment.