Exploring downtown Halifax

Halifax boasts that it has the longest Harbourside boardwalk in the world. We certainly explored it today. 11000 steps and one blister later you can now be awarded a certificate for walking its length. I love how right along the boardwalk are brightly coloured chairs , picnic tables and murals. Every new or renovated building has to include some type of public art…..a statue, mural or display. The atmosphere is vibrant with both locals and tourists enjoying the area.
The city is the capital of the province of Nova Scotia. It has been able to retain some of its historical buildings although many of course were lost in the massive explosion of 1917. There is an extensive pedi way that joins from the modern towers , office blocks , hotels and extends over major roadways. A pedi way is a covered walkway. This must be a boon in winter with the temperatures they experience, don’t you think.

Old bonds stores with new purposes.

 


Were you impressed? I found you a maritime museum since you will miss the Tokyo one. Halifax has created a Museum of the Atlantic. This region has always had a maritime history dating back to the birch covered canoes of the indigenous Mi’kmaq people. Yes there were models of ships, but more interesting, well to me , was the section on the Titanic and the explosion. As I said previously, the explosion happened when two ships collided in the narrows.

The pictures show the before and after for the church in the area . Shrapnel and parts of the exploded ship were found up to 8 kilometres away from the explosion site. Pieces still turn up today buried in the ground or in buildings that could be repaired.

 

 

 

You and I both know the story of the Titanic and have seen at least one documentary or fictionalised movie. Halifax was the nearest city to the ship. They expected the casualties to be brought to the city but the survivors were taken to New York. Instead Halifax got the job of collecting the dead and the debris. Many were identified and returned to families but despite best efforts , others weren’t and were buried . Artefacts are displayed showing the opulence and disparity between the passengers. To avoid scavengers , clothes and belongings that could not be returned were destroyed except those that could lead to identification. The saddest of these were a pair of baby shoes. Parts of the beautiful decorations in the ship also washed up. Many pieces were taken and turned into other pieces by the locals.

Class  system was evident in both life and burial. Look at these three rooms and menus. The first class had coffins, the second and third canvas shrouds and the crew, a stretcher. The third class menu is not to my liking but for the person , it may have been luxury compared to their usual meal.

What was your favourite part of the Museum. For me it was the section on sail boats. You walked in to the sound of the wind in the sails, the creak of the boards under your feet and the smell of the ropes. The Museum showcases the time of the sailboats but has gone further to teach children and others some of the traditional skills. They can learn how ropes were made, figureheads caved and better still, how to make their own rowboat. The scheme seems to be successful with one group already rowing beautiful boats and a Mi’kmaq family has made a traditional canoe. The  Museum is planning to expand the scheme. Rest time…….see you tomorrow. Oh if the photos aren’t coming through to your email, just flip over to the website…….site powers don’t know why sometimes they don’t come through.

Ropes.
Original figurehead
Replica

Hurrah, we have clothes!

You have survived the long flight from Sydney to Los Angeles. Well done! Better still immigration and customs at LA airport were a dream and the personnel were smiling. We were impressed. 

Next was the four hour wait for the Toronto flight, but I did get you a chocolate milk and the long walk from Terminal 1 to 6 loosened those stiff legs. Now the Toronto arrival was interesting. Because of COVID ( yes, you still need a mask), planes are much slower to disembark here. They only let 50 people off at a time so this means planes sit on the tarmac waiting their turn ( up to four hours in some peak times) for a spot. We were lucky because our wait was 20 minutes. This explains Air Canada cancelling so many of our flights and rescheduling them. 

Finally after overnighting in Toronto, we caught the plane to Halifax. Yes it was a 3.30am start but you had time for a coffee and snack from Tim Horton’s, no maple glazed donuts but the muffin was excellent.

No autumn colours yet.

Halifax airport…bag conveyor……it moves….will our luggage have made it…..yes there’s my bag! I’m okay! We wait and then….hurrah Mike’s made it too. We had booked them through from LA.

 

I expect you thought you could have a nap. Sorry ,no time for that! You need to explore the city. We head uphill ( did I mention Halifax is quite hilly) to the Clock tower and Citadel. The clock tower was built in 1803 and still keeps excellent time.

Stole this one as no room for a drone.

Boom! Is that thunder? No it is the noon cannon being fired at the Citadel. The Citadel is a modified star shaped fortress built the hill…..this was added too and expanded . It was built as a part of a defence for the port against the French. It has been rebuilt 4 times to adapt to the demands of environment and war technology. The last ,and present , building was of brick and stone with a dry moat. It was last used in World War 2 for training, planning and holding prisoners of war. Presently it holds a Canadian Army Museum, in the single mens barracks and is open for tourists to explore.

Guards room with cells attached.

Inside the barracks. I bags sleeping near the fire in winter.

All your belongings!

Did you find the fact that some men enlisted in the army so they , and their children , could be educated interesting? Queen Victoria certainly had some innovative ideas and instructed that all regiments should have access to education. Wives of the soldiers could earn money working in the school, washing , cooking , sewing or running the stores for the garrison. I wonder if they got to keep the money?

Don’t you love this newspaper front page from 1945

During the WW1 a Norwegian ship and a French munitions ship collided in The Narrows of Halifax Harbour. The resulting explosion of 2950 tonnes of munitions flattened the northern part of the city killing nearly 1800 people. 9000 were injured and 6000 were made homeless. When the suburb was rebuilt, it was styled on an English garden village. The houses are wooden ,like most homes in Canada ,but you have sections of just one style and then another of a different design. Painted different colours , they are known locally as ‘salt box houses’and have a small roadside garden in front. Some are now rundown but still look picturesque from afar don’t you think?

Well I don’t know about you , but I need something to eat and a rest. Tomorrow we will explore the waterfront and perhaps get you that maple glazed donut,

Leaving….at last

   Well after a year in planning and umpteen plane changes , we are at the airport. Bags have been booked through and Mike remembered the passports( yes I did decide to give him one more chance).
Now just to remind you ,we are going to Canada . We travel to Toronto via Los Angeles today and then onto Halifax. From here we are training it to the main cities and finishing in Vancouver. Then there is that side trip to Alaska to catch the Alaska rail Fairbanks to Anchorage.
Following the trains , we are taking a ship around the coast of Alaska.   Now I know you were really looking forward to bento boxes, seeing the autumn colours and visiting the maritime museum in Tokyo. There was just a slight change on Friday and we are going to Hawaii instead so put away the yen until next time……maybe. There was a scramble to change flights, airlines etc but we have managed so you won’t be stranded on the beaches in Honolulu. Sit back, enjoy your coffee and get ready for the long flight. I hope you are wearing comfortable clothes.

Time to go

    The plane is here!

Bye 247 , you have served us well.

Our week on Norfolk has flown past and we are heading home but before we go let’s check out how we spent the last few days…….and visit some of those picturesque places before we go.

Off to the theatre we went. The play was the “Trial of the Fifteen “.  Fifteen historical characters were brought before a Magistrate and Court clerk. The fifteen characters were played by two talented locals who whipped on different props to represent their characters. As the audience all booed or cheered them ,  we listened to their evidence. My favourite was the Polynesian rat that scuttled around the stage. Which did you like…Captain Cook, one of the wives or governors?

Government House is only opened once a month. Fees collected are given to different charities. Over the last few years, the interior has been restored to be as close as possible to how it looked originally.  The curtains and floor mats are stunning.Rooms are arranged around four courtyards of varying size. You are not allowed to photograph inside…..except for the courtyards though I did sneak one of a quilt……sorry…..I know I should be dead for breaking National security.   

Now you know there are amazing museums on the island with artefacts from the Sirius wreck, a restored house and artefacts showing life on Norfolk in those early days. Here are just a few photos to remind you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now history  not your thing ? You know you can only spend part of the time doing retail therapy, don’t you? There really isn’t that many shops.  The scenery is beautiful so take a drive, but not after you have been wine or liquor tasting, and experience the scenery.

 


Have I wetted your interest? Well  rush out and book your trip. It is only two and a half hours away . You may wish to avoid those cliffs tripping  you or if you are a cow , you may not want to visit your bovine friends on this particular street. Until next time..

 

 

Bounty Day

Bounty Day is Norfolk Island’s special day to remember the arrival of the Pitcairn Island people in 1856. It is naturally a public holiday. All the families dress as their ancestors did and meet at the pier.  A re-enactment  of the arrival takes place where  a boat is launched with representatives of each family . It lands and they are greeted by the administrator of the Island . Today the wind was so strong  , the boat struggled to turn and return to the pier. We wondered  if they were going to be circling all day but they made it, complete with an errant hat that had decided to escape.



 

All the families then walk to the cenotaph to lay a wreath for each family. From here they walk along the length of Quality Row to the cemetery. Some complain it is getting longer every year. Flowers are laid , families remembered and the fun begins……food, chatting to visiting family and the children (at last) are allowed to roll down the grass of Government Hill. This is really a once a year event for them. It is certainly a time for all the descendants to touch base. Us outsiders are not included but can watch the parade, which we did.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No retail therapy today. We explored Bumboras beach and the Crystal pools. Access to the pools is down a steep cliff with warning signs. I know you wanted to go down hanging off that rope but they did warn against it with high winds. Good that you read and obeyed the signs.

 

 

Norfolk again

Passport out and onto the plane. There are lots of restrictions, entry passes to complete(after you make an account, verify it and then sign in), masks to wear but yes we are going to Norfolk Island. There was an advantage , we were invited to have breakfast in the first class lounge. We felt very special. Our order was collected by staff in white coats, black gloves and masks. Not half posh. Breakfast was pretty good as well.

 

Our accommodation is very comfortable,so we are all set for new adventures. We have convinced Carolyn and Bev to come with us. They have a lovely two bedroom unit beside us. There was a huge storm last night accompanied by one seeds on the Norfolk pines exploding. An interesting experience.

Off to the supermarket for essentials, then we are heading out to explore.Everywhere you go there is something picturesque that deserves a photo. Sorry you won’t get to see many till I come home…  limited internet.

 

 

 

Still on the Ghan

I  hope you slept well. ….no one scrambling up or down the ladder to the top bunk or thumping on the door as they went past. Oh you were on the top bunk.  Today you stop in Alice Springs. It was called Stuart-town until 1932. Alice Springs was actually where the original Telegraph Station was located on the Todd River. Alice Springs is now a sprawling township made up of 12 suburbs. Our train is down there somewhere. Can you spot the red engine?.

Anzac Hill is the highest point of the town.

Australian children all learnt by booklets, internet  activities and zoom classes in 2020. For many children this is a normal situation. At present 92 children attend the School of the Air situated in Alice Springs. They see their teacher in person twice a year  at their home and their class mates 3 times a  year in Alice . Each child is equipped with everything they need by the school for $18,000. This includes a computer, printer, camera and satellite dish. Once the child no longer need it , all the equipment goes back to the school for the next child..

School of the Air made it possible for children to speak to other people and children. They could compare  their lives as well as learn school lessons. Radio and lesson packs would have made a welcome change to their routines. Computers have made learning much more fun and corrections are quickly made rather than waiting months.

Radio used to deliver lessons. Mum, dad or a paid tutor would help the children  .


Two weeks work in a postal pack.

Quilt showing students life made by pupil and their tutor.

Australia is a country of vast distances so communication has always been an obstacle. Mail and news was distributed in the outback by camel train.When the telegraph was invented, this slow delivery of news improved . However there were still complications caused by distance. Telegraph lines were installed from Darwin to Adelaide. Copper wire wasn’t used so transfer of the signal was only over a limited distance.

As the signals were weak, repeater stations were also built to send the message on to the next station. All of these used a liquid battery..

 

 

 

 

Life in the stations was isolated. At the original station in Alice Springs, women would make a shopping list twice a year , to be delivered by camel train. I don’t know about you, but I am sure I would forget to add something. You would have to work out what clothes the children would grow into and , imagine working out how much soap,sugar, flour or tea you would need. At the end of 6 months, things would be a bit lean. Fresh fruit would be a novelty if there wasn’t enough water for growing any fruit or vegetables. All the families belongings were carried by camel to the station, including a piano
 



The telegraph and post office . This was manned day and night so all messages were transmitted.

Original buildings were thatched

 

The sun is setting. Time for dinner.
You can get up at 1.00am for a drink under the stars. It is at the other end of the train , sorry but I think I will give it a miss.


Off to the airport. See you soon

The Ghan

You made it! I know you had a few anxious moments when the bus didn’t come but the taxi came through and here you are. Check out the cabin then off to the lounge to calm your nerves.

 

Don’t drink too much because it will soon be lunch and then we will be arriving in Katherine. I volunteered you for the cruise with the 2km stroll. The scenery of the Gorge is spectacular.




   

You can see why this area has been used in so many films over the years. Well you have survived the walk. Time to relax and go back to the lounge before you force yourself to have dinner and curl up in your cosy bunk . Night see you tomorrow.

Kakadu

Ready to be a tourist? We are taking a bus trip to Kakadu. It’s only a small bus and the driver assures us he knows lots…..it was a little worrisome that he left the door of the luggage van open ……….We are off. Kakadu is about a 3 .5 hour drive from Darwin. It is the end of the wet season so there is lots of water still around and some areas are still closed. Water lilies cover huge areas and are in flower with white and purple flowers. Salvia weed was a problem in the creeks but the Australian weevil they have introduced is gradually bringing it under control. No swimming here …..there are crocodile and although we went looking , they were shy and we didn’t see any.
We did see Sea eagles, Magpie geese and Jabiru, (Black beak stork)


It is hard to imagine that the floating grass you can see it 2 metres off the ground and will be trampled on by buffalo , pigs and crocodile in a month when the water recedes.You  could be walking through here on fenced walkways instead of having a relaxing ride in a flat bottomed boat. We are on the Yellow Waters river flood plain,  so called for the yellow water lilies that used to grow here.

Now you could have gone for a plane trip over the waterfalls….sorry we went to the Warradjun Cultural centre. Here is an amazing collection the local indigenous clans fish traps, tools and crafts. The language and customs of the four remaining clans are explained. I was glad we went, how about you. You are not allowed to photograph inside the centre so I took some photos of similiar things in the art workshop for you.

Fish trap made from Pandanas tree fibre.

Are you up for a bush walk? We are off to see some amazing art work.


Tonight we are staying at the Crocodile Hotel it was built in 1970’s in Jabiru. It is starting to show its age but its design is ingenious.

Early start today as we are off for another slightly longer bush walk to see some more amazing art. You can squib out but it’s only 4 km.  There are examples of stencil,x-ray ,contact and line paintings. 

Later today you are going to East Alligator river to watch crocodiles.
They have beautiful skin colours but as they come swimming towards you all you can think of is how glad you are you are in a boat.

As you can expect,I have thousands of photos to show you. We are on the Ghan today. See you soon.

Wild flowers

  

Update?

Sorry friend, I lead you astray ……that beautiful crocodile that liked munching on outboard motors was  740 kg. I had put her on a diet. She was caught with plans to put her in a crocodile farm but was accidentally drowned when given a sedative to make her easier to handle. Phew now I have admitted that and can I add  BULEY was auto corrected to Bluey.   I will make sure my checker doesn’t doze off in future…you all know what a terrible speller I am.

Today we joined lots of Darwinians at the Parap markets. These are held every Saturday  and are an opportunity to try different foods from just everywhere, collect some crafts , flowers or local fruits.

   


The naughty corner is definitely one to visit as the cakes looked amazing , unfortunately we had just had breakfast so no room for Vanilla slice.  Mindil Beach  markets are the most famous markets in Darwin but only operate between April and October.

Fannie Bay is an historical area in Darwin’s settlement. It is also the site of  a Gaol . Initially for both men and woman ,and then women and children until 1979. It’s the first place that aboriginal art was recognised and the place where the last two men were executed, ( they were convicted of murder).

Prisoners art 1888

Conditions  were hard  for the inmates as there was initially no electricity or toilets. Ventilation was through a small window high in the wall.Prisoners were taken to the beach to wash. Without facilities the rooms would have been hot , smelly and dark. The only advantages were :staff had a good relationship with the prisoners (even joined them in games) and there were areas for communal dining and activities.

Children’s cells

 

 

‘New’ Women cell

Next stop is Myilly Point. This was the home country for the Larrakai      People. When Darwin began to settle, it became known as the Kahlin compound as houses were built for the local people. Unfortunately as time went on, it became fenced and the locals were only allowed to enter the main town with a special metal disc. It is also where you can find 3 houses from the 1930’s built in Darwin. These were built raised up on stilts so you could use underneath the building for entertains in hot weather. Louvers and big windows allowed air to flow through the house. Doors were only open above and below to also help keep the rooms cool. These 3 houses escaped the bombing of Darwin and surprisingly because of the design, also survived Cyclone Tracy All three houses have been restored now and are looked after by the National Trust.Burnett house is gradually being furnished as it used to be. The Audit house is being used for functions such as drawing workshops and the remaining house is rented at present.        Next stop for the day…. I know you thought you were done…. is return the car and walk to the Flying Doctor exhibition. This exhibition is mainly information boards but there are virtual displays too. I really liked the holograph movie telling the history of the Flying Doctor service and one American Naval officer’s experience during the bombing. Reverend Flynn certainly had forward thinking about the needs of supporting the people of the outback , initially by camel, then car and finally by air.

So you have had a full day. Relax, take the sunset cruise and enjoy Darwin harbour by night , tomorrow you can rest before heading to Kakadu.

 

 

Come Join us on our travels!