To the east coast

Travel in Tasmania is easy, especially on the not so popular routes. The midlands is drier than south . Today we are going through some historical towns known for their original Georgian architecture, Oatlands, Richmond and Ross. Each has a quiet, serene, country feel with wide streets. Amazing really when you consider that transport would have been limited and by horse or perhaps the coach service. We did see some isolated houses that would have offered that cup of tea or soup to the weary traveller.
Richmond was set up as a convict town. There was a gaol…..no we are not visiting as you have seen enough convict places.

Richmond gaol
Gaol front

We are going to admire the houses and then have coffee.





 



I found a platypus!

and I loved these ceramic pictures…..just couldn’t think where I could put it. You were no help so they had to stay there.

Oatlands was surprising. There was a beautiful mill and 150 Georgian houses. I loved the pictures they had running in the mill and mill cottage. It made the history real. What was your favourite?

  

Miller’s cottage



Next stop, Ross and another beautiful convict bridge. This one even have decorative carvings and was finished quickly when the stone masons were offered emancipation as an incentive. It would have been an incentive for me as well I think. There was a female convict gaol here but there is only the supervisor cottage left. Women stayed here washing laundry or looking after babies for the township until they were allocated as servants.

Supervisor cottage

 

Did you know Tasmania was once divided along the 42degree line? I didn’t. It was divided into the Count of Buckinghamshire and the County of Cornwall . They were very competitive and they were only unified when both leaders died. It wasn’t until 1959 that there was a ceremonial burying of the hatchets. We know how that goes…look how Melbourne and Sydney have rivalries in NSW. Ross still remains the only settlement on the 42degree line in the world.

Copy of bridge carvings

Surprise! Ross is the wool centre for Tasmania . The museum was interesting…..and small so no groaning!

Slipper bath
A tapestry designed by the artist Coburn

   

 

  

Bischeno is a lovely coastal town with beautiful beach views. There are penguins here during different times of the year. You guessed it…they knew we were coming and went on holiday. We spent ages down at the beach in the dark but I think children running, dogs barking and swimming was also a deterrent.

To the look out.Stay on the path as those rocks look hard.

If you went diving you could see these. I didn’t 🙁

   

The blowhole.

Foreshore walk

Let’s try again for those  penguins tonight. We head north again tomorrow.

 

Way down south

Is your brain in overload after days of history? It’s time to explore the outdoor life. We are heading south starting with Mt Wellington. This mountain soars above the landscape close to Hobart and has been popular with hikers since the 1800’s. It is made from dolerite  which has weathered into interesting shapes.

Going up!

As you can see, it is foggy. Verrry foggy and there is a brisk wind blowing. Good thing you rugged up because so many people seem to have come unprepared.

   



Hey look , it a wooden boat building centre. Let’s check it out…..it is run by volunteers who are trying to keep the art of wooden boat building alive. Now it’s internationally recognised and you can qualify for a certificate. Shame we don’t have time but the boats are beautiful. If you live here in Franklin, you can pay $150 annually to the boat organisation and use any of their many boats.  This will be a problem for me……have no idea how to sail or row a boat….and I don’t live in Franklin.

Viking carving for a customer

A whaler replica boat complete with harpoon stand.

A good use of wood scraps
Inuit style…

Which one will you choose?
Skills needed

If you want to know the characters of Geeveston, just check out the beautiful Huon pine carvings around the town. Each have contributed to their community in a positive way.Can you guess their occupations?

This will surprise you, she ran a haberdashery.


 

Everywhere we go, I try to show you the local wildlife…and usually fail.  Nothing has changed. Platypus are common in this area. I looked carefully and so did you but they have gone on holiday elsewhere.    

   

Do you remember the TV series Rosehaven? No/yes well anyway part of the series was filmed here in Geeveston. Now our claim to fame will be that we were here too!

You know you are in timber country when a memorial is in the shape of a cut log and one sight is a big tree….aptly named the “big log”.

Today is “Let’s enjoy the outdoors day”. You will climb over 750 stairs  and walk quite a few kilometres. I can hear your groans but you will be having so much fun you won’t notice.



Ready. We are going up there.

The fire started just below the mountain and then started to spread. There was a wind change and it jumped the river and burnt out 67000 hectares of bush land in 2019. Flames were reaching up to more than 50 metres and the fire became a crown fire. The air walk was rebuilt and the bush is recovering. Many of the oldest trees could not be saved.

Could you live out here?
Swing bridge
No rocking it!

Rest time and a quick coffee. Time to do a few more stairs. We are going to the Hasting caves and hot springs. 500 stairs involved. Are you up for it.Like all caves, it is dark with beautiful formations.

   

 


The hot springs are around 21 -28degrees Celsius. You can go swimming if you want. You forgot your swimsuit. Oh dear…skinny dipping isn’t allowed , sorry. I think it’s time to head back so we don’t add to the road kill by running over and wildlife on the road. 

 

 

 

Footsteps in history

If you could choose to go back in time, would you take the risk? Today we are going to learn about the lives of people in the past and the choices some of them made. Modern cities are often built on the ruins or foundations of other buildings. This results in discoveries of past lifestyles and can cause interesting preservation methods. This is the case in St David’s park. There was a cemetery here of people who were first fleeters or who were moved from the settlement on Norfolk Island. Parliament and government expansion required these graves to be moved . Now they form part of this park and are definitely not forgotten.

For the important.
For the average

As you would expect, women either died around childbearing age or made old bones if they survived this stage. Children often did not get beyond 2 while men seemed to survive to their 50’s or older.

From here we walked past some interesting buildings and sculptures….penguins and seals are very popular subjects in Hobart, to Hobart Penitentiary.

St David’s Cathedral.

   


75,000 convicts were transported to Tasmania. 30,000 were women and children. We know many of the crimes committed were fairly minor but punishments metered out were often harsh. Some crazy people actually committed crimes so they could be transported because they couldn’t afford the passage costs to emigrate. Big mistake!

Initially, convicts would find accommodation and jobs in the community. This changed with Governor Arthur who believed reform came with deprivation , punishment and religion. The Hobart penitentiary was built with this in mind. Food was sparse and there was plenty of hard labour and the lash.

 

If you look closely, you can see the solitary confinement cells underneath the floor of the chapel. If there was church, prisoners could hear it and those above could smell and hear the moans of those below, 1850 saw these removed as inhumane. Only the worst criminals were then kept on the site. The clock tower was added in 1830 so the locals could go to church on Sunday but stay separate from the convicts. The clock makers later went on to design Big Ben in1840.

The altar
The pews
The beams of the ceiling
Cell close to pulpit
The pulpit. The cell underneath was so low the prisoner could only lie there.
Stairs down to cells and future tunnels
A solitary cell

It was later used as a court. This was continued into the late 1900’s.

Arrow marked bricks. It was obvious if you stole them

A cell for a repeat offender.

Prisoners would be escorted to the court via tunnels from the holding cells .

You will be here for awhile so no graffiti and it is not a toilet.

Some were sent to the gallows. The last hanging was in the 1940’s.

The lever
The noose..12 knots for the jury and one for the judge.
The trapdoor

  Some became upstanding members of the society, others did not. Records of convicts transported, including the transport ship, crime, physical characteristics .occupation and what happened or them have been found. These can now be accessed from the archives.

Leisure.

Our next walk through history was the replica of Mawson’s huts. Imagine a whole heap of pipe smoking men, wet wool and cold. It was certainly evidence of human endurance, perseverance and friendship.

Building the huts
It is a bit cold or are we dressed as monsters.

Mawson’s room/ office/ the record room for scientific findings.

Mawson and those who remained to look for him survived two winters in Antartica.

Well after such a history filled morning you deserve coffee, a fun sculpture and a question.

   

When you are rested, we are off to the botanical gardens. They have plants from Macquarie Island in a very cold room.

 

The caretaker cottage
Sub Antartica house

The gardener is a based on a phot from the 1800’s

 

 

 

 

Kew over the city with the bridge over the Derwent.

Tomorrow we leave for Mt Wellington and the Huon valley. Expect some walking😄

 

 

 

 

Bruny Island

All ready…we are heading to Bruny Island. It is known for yummy food and scenery. You can give me your opinion this afternoon.   
On the way to Kettering we passed Margate Train. No you are not going for a ride…..the carriages are actually shops and a cafe. We are too early for coffee. But we are close to the ferry terminal.



Here is the queue!

Squashed onto the ferry like sardines in a tin


Look you did get a ferry ride after all.

We will drive to the lighthouse first and beat the crowds.

   
It is a long haul up to the lighthouse ,but there were heaps of wildflowers out to take photos of while you catch your breath. You and I certainly took advantage of this didn’t we?

Half way point

   

 

Life would have been harsh here. One lighthouse keeper was here in a two bedroom cottage with 11 children. 4 of these went on to be lighthouse keepers too.
Bruny Island has a reputation for its beautiful beach at Adventure Bay, honey ,cider, whisky, cheese, raspberries, chocolates and oysters. It’s too early for some of these …l’ll let you decide which.

Chocolate anyone?

Adventure Bay beach

The sand is very pale and the water today ,with the blue sky ,was the most amazing colour of turquoise.

Can you see the whale and her calf inside the globe?

Bruny Island has sheep and cattle grazing. Here are some  photos of the countryside and a few quirky sights.

Blue farmer….part of a anti depression programme.

Let’s head to the’Neck’, a thin strip in the middle of the island. It is full of bird nests. Sorry we didn’t fit into the bird’s schedule, so no penguins in sight.


Hungry? We could try the cheese but it looks packed with all those having  a free taste……how about oysters?



  

Oops the natural have disappeared.

Time to head for the car ferry before the queues get too long and we hit peak traffic.

Lots more to discover tomorrow. Let’s decide what we will do in the morning.

 

 

 

Here in Hobart

Hobart has many historical buildings within walking distance of the waterfront. We are staying in the Customs House Hotel……it is now a complex consisting of 3 buildings cobbled together. Think stairs and sloping floors. The view is great. We look out across to Constitution Dock. The Parliament building and gardens are beside it across the road.

Our view complete with smudges on the window.
Parliament House

Soooooooo you are going to walk around and play which building is that near the hotel and also at Battery Point. Battery Point was the place where 3 unsuccessful attempts were made to build a defence for the new settlement in the early days. Despite this , there are some beautiful example of colonial and later building styles.

Salamanca Place
The Village on Battery Point. Housewives would shop here daily for food and gossip
Fusiliers Cottage : a Georgian style building 1833
A cute combination : Monsoon and Rainkoat

 

Arthur’s circle
These were wharf workers cottages. Small and often crowded with big families…now highly sought. 1850’s.
Lenna
Narryna, built by a captain of a whaler ship. He had to sell it two years later

Customs House Hotel

You do realise that Hobart was developed on a maritime industry so yes you are off to the Maritime Museum. No complaining…..I have scored the children’s scavenger hunt and we are on a mission to find Lego men and stuffed animals….oh and we will read about shipwrecks and maritime stuff.  Can you see teddy, Mr rat, echidna, and at least 2 Lego men?

A compact basin and cupboard
A canoe from paperbark bundles

Mike found equipment he used as an apprentice

Beautiful scrimshaw


There were quite a few shipwrecks on Tasmania’s wild coast. Some occurred because hazards were not reported or recorded on maps. There were also stories of amazing survival such as Blythe Star where 7 survived on a life raft and then landing in a remote area.

Can you see the Customs House Hotel in this old photo?

A few other sights…..we did start looking at Historical sites in the city circle but decided it would wait till another day.

I finally saw a platypus
Monument to Dutch explorers.
Vision
Now
Franklin square now

 



   

Coffee? See you tomorrow. We are off to Bruny Island , think oysters, chocolate and perhaps a walk up a lighthouse…..be ready.

To Hobart

Todays plan:
Strahan…….🚗…….Queenstown🥞☕️……🚗……Horsetail Falls…..🚗…….Nelsons Falls……🚗………Hamilton…..🚗…….Hobart

It’s raining so no rush….hopefully the weather will improve so load up and we will head to Queenstown. The distance is only 45 km and we will have breakfast at Queenstown station so we can check out the tiny ( yes I said tiny) museum.

Hills surrounding Queenstown are almost naked of vegetation. Processing of and mining of Zinc in the early 1900’s caused plumes of sulphur to pollute the environment and destroyed the vegetation. Tree felling and fire finished off the vegetation.All that was left was the rocky outcrops. There are signs that the soils are building up and vegetation is returning in the crevices between the rocky outcrops. Mining and tourism have bought benefits to the community and the population have embraced this in a series of sculptures depicting events in the area.

     

The town has retained its country feel with the wide street and elaborate pub architecture. There is even an art deco theatre. 

Mural on the side of the Paragon theatre.

 

Mining has influenced all activities in the town and is linked to the railway. Before road transport was established, everything was transported from Strahan by train.

It was the link for the people to the outside world. Distances in this area between settlements are still quite large and even now communication  can be limited. For most of our time there wasn’t even mobile coverage.  Fuel stations are infrequent and may not be manned. If telecommunications go down, you can’t get fuel because your credit card won’t work. There are few other traveller on the road. We could count a one hand the number of cars we passed. 
Just out of Queenstown is Horsetail Falls. Following rain, you can see them from the highway….but we weren’t lazy were we ? ….We walked along the boardwalk to see them ,risking life and limb as it clings to the sides of the mountain. Did you like that drama? Well there is a considerable gap along the edge.  

Not far from the falls  was once a thriving mining town called Linda. All that remains is a coffee shop , a few houses and the ruins of one of the three hotels. Gold ran out. There was a mining disaster where 42 men lost their lives and people started to leave.The coffee was great and the people lovely. They were happy to share the history and old photos which made it so real don’t you think.

See the ruins in the background

More exercise…..you have been sitting for awhile. It says it’s an easy walk to the Nelson Falls. It was worth it , you have to admit.

 

Sculpture near the Wall

Get settled, it’s a three hour drive from here to Hobart. You can enjoy the scenery and we may stop briefly in Hamilton. Did you now it has stone buildings that were paid for by making illegal liquor.

 

The great divide range.

Stone buildings at Hamilton

 

Look at that cloud hovering above the valley!

Well the rain has held off…mostly and here we are in Hobart. Get settled and tomorrow we will explore historical parts of Hobart.

Surprising Strahan

Strahan has many opportunities to occupy your time. Did you find things to you would like to do or will you join us on the cruise up the Gordon River?

Do you remember when they were considering damming the river for hydro electricity In the 80’s? I was busy with babies but it was in the news. The river was saved. Heading out into the harbour  we are soon at Hells Gate. It is so narrow only  80 metres wide. Can you imagine trying to sail through this narrow opening? Captain Kelly tried to make it safer by building a rock wall but this only helped a little.

I am glad they saved the river as it is so peaceful and beautiful. At the  Heritage Landing, there is a list of trees you can identify. You know me and scavenger hunts….off we went and found all the trees.

Laurel   
2300 year old Huon pine.
Huon roots spread allowing new trees to grow.
Huon pine grain is tight.
Huon pine

Sarah island was the home to many convicts. It was considered a harsh, rebellious convict settlement with poor conditions. This changed in 1829 when a storm destroyed much of the infrastructure. Shipbuilding was started on the island and since there was a source of Huon pine and other timbers, it was successful. Convicts learnt skills and their conditions improved.

This was 3 stories high
Solitary confinement.
Boat slip remains

Now you would think this was a win ,win situation for government and convicts. Government is selling the boats and convicts are not causing problems.  No way…..the Government decided convicts should be punished and wanted them moved to Port Arthur. One group of 10 took an unfinished boat, made it sea worthy and escaped. A year later , 4 were recaptured  in Chile and  brought back to be tried……..”The ship that never was”…..we went to the play but more later.
You have had a leisurely day so far so I think a walk is required……a short one so no sad faces. A short walk to Hogarth falls and it’s mostly flat! A family donated this land and waterfall to the town in the early 1920’s, Local schools look after the area for every one.


Heritage West Coast train trips are considered a must in this area. The train and line is being upgraded so sorry, you will have to come again. See I told you that you would have to come again  and do the activities you missed this time. Afternoon tea? The scones are amazing.

I mentioned a play. 10 convicts took the boat they were building and escaped to sea. 4 were recaptured a year later and brought back to face trial. They were accused with committing mutiny and treason. The play is an audience participation event as there are only 3 actors. Mike was the gunsmith, John Barker. It was hilarious wasn’t it. Everyone joined into the fun and the result of the trial…..it was argued that as the boat had not been registered and had no papers…..it was a felony. A bundle of sticks had been stolen so not a hanging offence. Definitely a fun event!



It’s pouring rain. No bushwalking today……no cheering thank you…..it’s good for you. It may be museums or something else.

Highlights and disappointments?

Ready to explore more……we are heading to Strahan today with a few stops on the way. Walking shoes may be required so be prepared. It is another windy day so even the birds were looking for a place to camp.

Guess what! Get ready for bumps because all the roads on this route are gravel. Surprise!


Tasmania’s west coast is known for its food( spectacular scallop pie last night) and its magnificent wild landscapes. First stop is definitely one of these. We are at Bluff Point light house. Beware of the bees and being blown away….but look at the view. It doesn’t disappoint.

   

Next stop over the bridge at Arthur’s River and to the Edge of the World.Spectacular isn’t it? Were you blown away?  I struggled to hold the camera to take a photo and Mike looked like he was going to lose his jacket.

   

 

Leaving the actual coast, you are now heading through the coastal low sedges and grasses to the temperate rainforest. Now watch out for Tasmanian devils……the signs say they are about.

   Spot any? Me neither 🙁

Now we did see a Thylacine……..sculpture. This was at the Extinction lookout site. It looked across the forest towards the Savage river. I must admit the smell of the forest was amazing….a mixture of eucalyptus and tea tree.

It is upside down,in case you are wondering.

Are you ready for a boat ride…..well a punt actually across the Pieman river? Not sure how it got its name but pies are a popular food in Australia. The punt is called Fatman barge.

   

Sorry this is the first of your disappointments. The punt is broken. You will have to back track 150 kilometres …..back to Waratah . Look there is a waterfall in the centre of the town.

Waratah

 

Through to Zeehan. There is a heritage centre here showing the whole history of the West coast. Oops it closed at 4.00pm. You missed it . I can see you are disappointed but we have to come back to ride the historical train in a year or two. You can go then…..if you would like. I was disappointed in the town. I thought it would be full of historical buildings but it wasn’t.

At last we’ve made it to Strahan, It is dinner time. You must be hungry, I am. Let’s book in and go to dinner. Tomorrow we are going up the Gordon River and need to be at the boat by 8.00am. Comfortable shoes and perhaps a jacket required…

 

No passport needed!

Christmas is over and those itchy feet, or perhaps I should say fingers, have been in action so off we go. Yes an early start but look……We are about to land in Launceston, Tasmania. Time to use those air credits up from COVID and see some places closer to home. 

First stop Penguin, named for the cute visitors that have made it home. No we  will not see real ones because it’s not dark but there are lots of them in the street. Even the bins have a penguin theme.

Take a seat

   
There was a tardis to take you to other worlds.It was the local readers street library full of books to wisk you away.
Next stop is the historical town Stanley. It is known for its buildings from the 1800’s. Many of the cottages are now holiday accommodation or have now found new roles as businesses.




Stanley faces Bass Strait and is backed against a huge rock bluff called the “Nut”. It is a volcanic plug. Now the easy way to get to its flat top is the cable car.

The easy way!
The other way…..

Today it’s blowing a gale so the only other option is to go up the strenuous, steep path. Guess what you are doing! Nuts up on the “Nut”. It’s a bit like our drive on steroids,just at a 45 degree angle and half a kilometre…… but you can do it.


Well get those feet ready……..another day of exploring tomorrow.    Sneakers might be good….

Tashkent

Tashkent was hit by a massive earthquake in 1966. 80 percent of the city was destroyed.

Earthquake memorial

 

As most people lived in compounds at that time, only 10 people were declared dead but there were many injuries. The Soviet came in with other neighbouring countries to help the people. Architecture changed in the city to medium and high rise. There is still a section of the ‘old city’ but now high rise dominates the skyline with more modern styles.

 

Amir Timur

There are two parts of the old city locals feel are important. The first is  Khartoum-Imam square that contains the Kukeldash  Madrasah ,Barack Khan Madrasah , Tilly’s Sheikh Mosque and Kaffee Shashi Mausoleum. It dates back 2000 years.

Modern local mosque.
Inside the local mosque with wooden carvings.

The Madrasah was a day school and one was for the wealthy only…..first private school? Now the Barack Khan Madrasah is a Quran museum. One book dates back to 644- 656 and was written by Caliph Oscan from the prophet Mohammad, and is considered one of the oldest in existence. The pages were thick and the writing large in a red coloured ink of pomegranate juice,ash and wool oil. It was very clear but of course I couldn’t read it. I don’t think you could either…..our early Arabic is a bit rusty .

Chorsu bazaar

Naturally the second important place is the bazaar for the weekly shop. You can even go for your weekly dose of Plov so you don’t have to cook it or any of the other favoured fast food like dumplings or Samsos( it’s like a pie).

The bazaar under the dome
The tomatoes taste as good as they look!
Yellow and orange carrots.
The weekly shop
Green radish
Plov for lunch

 

Fast food centre
Dried fish

Meat anyone…no it’s not refrigerated.

 

 

Material by the bolt or just a metre or two

 

It’s been a long morning
Subway routes

Subways in some countries are plain but here in Tashkent many have decorated ceilings or walls. Let’s investigate. It costs 1400 som…..about 18c au.to travel on a very fast system.  



 
 
Guess what , look it’s a train museum.

Yes I know, trains again but Mike does love them.
The first step is sooooo high

Mmmmmmm interesting

Mmmmmmm interesting…

I know you can’t wait to see the old trains.  It was strange going through security just to get into the train station…There are two main stations, north and south…I thought it was a bit boring inside, how about you?Just a pretty face?

Central station

   

The coffee is good.

Back we go to the group to see a few more sights before we head for the airport. A German immigrant way back in the day set up craftsmen workshop to promote Uzbekistan crafts. His rather ornate and unique house is now a museum for some of the crafts.  

   

    Some of the hand embroidered textiles are magnificent. The stitches are so fine.

How about these shoes
Musical craftsmen

A Christian church for a change. It is impressive.

The Catholic Church of Tashkent

     
Next stop a memorial to World War 2. 600,000 soldiers did not return and all their names are written on brass sheets. 

The war memorial
Looking for relatives
The mother who waits

   Not far away is the Independence Square celebrating Uzbekistan gaining its independence from the Soviet Union after years of being controlled by one power or another.

 

From here there are two more sights Tashkent people like to share. The first is a memorial to 20 poets who demanded independence and were killed by the KGB with the largest telecommunications tower in Central Asia in the background.

In memory

 

Now the other thing closest to every Uzbek heart is Plov, a type of pilaf. Naturally you need to go to the Plov centre. Wow that is one bug cauldron….but watch out for them lifting the burning wood out.

The bread…
The cauldron
The fire
The Plov
One more stir
Serve up
Next serve

Before I leave for the plane….just a few fun sights you may have missed. Overall this has been my favourite country. The people are friendly. Council workers survive on $252 a month and the average wage is $472 a month so multigenerational living and buying in bulk makes sense. Food and public transport is cheap. PS. Some toilets you need to take deep breaths and a jug of water before entering 😁🤣😂

Look at those teeth
No broccoli here
The perfect biscuit gift
Karaoke anyone
Xayr. Salomat bo'ling

Goodbye for now.

 

Come Join us on our travels!