How are you coping with the dust…..it certainly upsets everyone’s hay fever.

From Khujand we are travelling to Ura-Tyube.

See the dust in the air at sunrise over the lake. We are visiting a reconstruction of a fortress that used to protect the city Istaravshan in a previous time. Quite impressive, isn’t?

 

 

 

Don’t get comfortable as the next stop is just a few kilometres away. It is an original mosque and teaching area. It ceiling is beautifully decorated with painted designs.

   

There is a building being constructed next door. No safety precautions needed here. The brick layer and his helper have no harnesses as they hang off the building.

This region is known for its craftsmanship.Quick, out of the bus as we are going to inspect the knives…..don’t get any ideas…the guide will loosen up I’m sure.

 

 

Through the tunnel. It is 4.5 kilometres long. You don’t want to breakdown as there is no stopping places or ventilation. Breathe deep and absorb those fumes, not. 

 

 

Wow aren’t the Fan mountains beautiful. Don’t look down, there is not much space between us and the edge of the roads. It is a little scary when the driver decides to overtake other vehicles. 

   

 

Hurrah, we survived and here we are in Dushanbe.This is the capital of Tajikistan. Dushanbe means Monday and was named for the market that was held on that day. A quick look at the streetscape as we drive by.

 

 

Dinner is in a traditional restaurant. Are you impressed with the decor….. I was.

At last we are going to go for a walk in a park….for a short time. Look the lights are in both geometric and bird shapes. They will be impressive at night……and yes ,the air is full of dust.

Sorry, it’s museum time again. This one contains a collection from the Bronze Age. Some of the jewellery found in burial caskets from the wealthy show remarkable skill and evidence of trading with other groups especially the shell jewellery.

   

Yes ,believe it or not, this 18th Century Hissar Fort is mostly original. It is a huge complex.

 

During the Soviet period, the ‘hotel’ part of the complex was used to store crops so much of the structure has been gradually destroyed. The mosque and study area is original. Each compartment would have been used for 3 students.Obviously the inside of the fortress has lost the original buildings but caravan travellers of the Silk Road would have seen soldiers and animals as well as the official they needed to see. The bazaar would have occupied what is now the wedding walk area.

Marriage requires certificates from lots of different groups including a doctor, a reception, boys night, girls night venues, music and food suppliers showing numbers of people( you can have a maximum of 150), and an application for the civil ceremony and religious ceremony.The government then recognises you are married.

There are 3 couples. No smiles for the wedding photos? Marshmallow dresses are the go.They don’t know each other and will only have spoken a few times before the ceremony. It is accepted that the decision of your parents is best.

So who pays for what ?
The grooms family pays :

• parents for the bride
• the boys night(200 people or less) , and the
• wedding celebration (3 hours at an approved venue) with music
• Certificates showing military service, doctor etc

The. bride’s family pays

• for the food to entertain up to 150 women who will come and check out the wedding presents
• at least 40 outfits that she will change into to show the wealth and prestige she is bringing to the grooms family. Think constant fashion show for 40 days.

The lights at night are beautiful.

 

Back through the tunnel to Penjikent

 

Natures refrigerator

You thought that was just a pile of dirt didn’t you?

I did too but it is the ruins of the great city of Penjikent. Buildings were made of mud and straw.

Originally they were covered with carvings and painted stories of the time similar to Pompeii. This city was attacked by Arabs and much of the art destroyed as it depicted animals and humans which is not in accordance with Islamic ideas.A quick, I promise, visit to another museum then off to the hotel and dinner.

Tajikistan is a much more traditional country than any of the states we have visited so far. Men and women have clearly marked roles. For women it is anything to do with food,children or the house.

Men are expected to provide a house and support their family.This includes looking after the parents by the oldest male and making sure all the males in the family have a house. The government owns the land but people own the houses on the land and pay a tax to the government. Of the Stans we have visited, this one appears to have great ideas but then doesn’t take care or maintain them. Pollution seems to be a problem and rubbish is just thrown everywhere, even in historically important areas. What do you think?

How do you explain you need medicine to stop a tummy upset when you can’t speak  the local language.

Tomorrow a new country.