Tag Archives: Kyrgyzstan

Where are we?šŸ¤”

Ā  Ā Ā We have been very busy since we last talked.In fact you are getting a few days worth because we havenā€™t had wifi to share the adventure ps,Next stop Karakol. This is a smaller city. Like most of the villages and country cities we pass through, you are not sure if the houses are deserted, under repair or simply unfinished. To me they seem like someone isnā€™t quite sure what they want and so are working on it. Some houses reflect Russian design as they settled here. Containers are popular here for extra space or to use as shops.

Russian style house with shutters.

Container shops


Russian styled building used as a teacherā€™s college

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In Karakol,is a mosque that was built by Chinese Muslims so it is in the shape of a pagoda. To enter the area all us girls have to put on a hooded ,long sleeved robe. Think Harry Potter in rainbow. What colour are you?The pagoda has sayings to inspire you on the outside entrance walls.

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Can you find me?
The pagoda mosque

Ā  Ā  Next stop is an Orthodox Christian church. It had been built without nails but during the Russian period had been used as a sports hall. Despite the risk,people managed to save some of icons. One was considered special as it survived a church fire and then the Russian religious ban.Best thing about the church is the beautiful plants that fill the church.

A Russian Orthodox Church

Drawing of the church.

Up you get. Time to stretch and see the. Rock formations and walk along the gorge.

7 bulls
Can you see a hand?

Donā€™t you think the rock colour is amazing? The story of the broken heart rock is of a shepherd and his love for a girl. He brought her flowers every day. When winter came she wanted Eidelweiss. He said it was too cold but she insisted. When he didnā€™t return she looked for him and found him frozen holding her flower. She cried and it caused the rocks to crackā€¦.the moral being be satisfied with what you have and donā€™t want more.

Heartbreak mountain on the right.

Issyk kul Lake

 

No swimming even though there are change booths?
Issyk kul Lake

Tonight you are staying in a Yurt. Hope you are excited. Roads in Kyrgyzstan are even worse than at home. The one we are on as been under construction for 5 years. It runs along the edge of the Issyk kul lake.Ā 


Find your yurt and then letā€™s go for a walk before watching them make those puffy bread and having dinner.Ā  Ā 

We are being guided by the camp cat
Shepherds heading to collect the cattle
Foot in, arms in
Shoulders in, and you are doing the Kyrgyzstan style dance
Your sleeping accommodation madam. Cosy isnā€™t it.
Dinner rice, vegetables,chicken,and lamb pieces on top

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Watch out for 4 legged residents

Will you survive shoes off, shoes on. Ā Shoes are taken off Ā going into a yurt. Going to the loo in the middle of the night is going to be an event,isnā€™t it?

Is it a dragon or just the remains of a tree?
Burana
A suggested model of the city of Burana

Near the yurt camp is an archeological site. It is the remains of the city of Burana. This was one of the cities created by the Khan family in the during the period of their reign. All that remains is the tower of the mosque. It was 45m originally raised on a platform. Now the restored minaret is 25m. No I am not climbing up it because the stairs are one person wide,no passing s not for me. You go.

No magic genies šŸ˜¢ in these oil lamps.

They have found money, including shell money, vessels, gravestones from various religions and even a burial casket. People at this time were laid out on a platform and after a period , bones were collected and interned in a wooden or pottery funeral container.

Pottery funeral container

Cemeteries here are like small towns. In fact when we were passing them early this morning , we thought they were deserted mud houses,You are buried in shroud in a sitting position and covered with rocks and dirt. No coffin for you! A fence is then put around and a monument or grave marker in front. This is white if the person is young. Women will have flowers to mark how many children they had. Men get a geometric design, if you have a dome, you have been to Mecca for the Haji.It is rather creepy thinking that all those skeletons are staring out at you.

A city for the dead

To the capital Bishkek. This was named for a stick used in stirring the fermented mareā€™s milk. No I didnā€™t have any of thisā€¦a delicacy I decided to pass on along with the horse meat. Yes I know it is supposed to make you strong because of all the herbs horses eat but not in my comfort food zone. Sorry.The tomatoes are fabulous.

Bishkek Government buildings. They were used as factories.

Bishkek is a more modern city. Most of the official buildings were constructed during the Soviet era. Trees line the streets and fill parks. This was part of the requirement to settle in the areaā€¦a tax was paid or 11 trees planted.

The cinema

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Republic square

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In the Republic square is the war memorial. It has 3 curved sides like a yurt but the 4th side is missing since many family members are also missing because of the war. A mother stands waiting for menfolk to return. Other statues are scattered showing the history of Kyrgyzstan.

Soldiers still in the field

Soldiers returning

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The woman president who negotiated peace

Changing of the guards requires much precision and goose stepping. Your uniform must also be precise( one poor guard had his straightened , how embarrassing)


Dinner was an event with the quartet playing traditional instruments. I think we are all dumpling out as so many are left over.

This lovely lady is 94 and dressed in traditional clothes. She was sad she didnā€™t have her special headdress on which has 40 metres of fabric in
Heading to OSH

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OSH is at the southern end of Kyrgyzstan. People here are allĀ  Muslim but are Uzbek and Kyrgios. Uzbek women are more traditionally dressed with a head scarf while Kyrgios women are dressed in a western style.This part of the country is quite poor and the roads are more holes than road. The main tourist attraction is a museum created in the caves. These have been used since the Bronze Age as a refuge.It now holds objects representing the history of OSH.


Symbol of the tribes
Inside the cave chambers
Sharmanism

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This is a warrior grave.The outside stones are the age and the inside stones he number of men he killed.
Yes there are lots of stairs

Did you like the women insisting of photographs? We had quite a time sharing photos. White hair and light skin is a novelty here.

People live in compound. There is a main gate and behind is a multigenerational house as the eldest male is expected to care for the parents. If you have a business, this is conducted at the front of the complex. We saw a knife maker and baker. Only the male family members will be taught the trade. Ā 

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Girls are expected to marry even if they continue their education beyond high school. Knife makers are amazing as they creat knives out of any metal they can find including car parts and handles are boar, ibex, or any other materials they can find.

Dinner was Plov made at an Uzbek compound.

The Great grandfather,grandfather, and father
Rooms are around a courtyard.

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Sister and granddaughter
The mum and wife

Plov cooking with quince and garlicā€¦.yum

Four stamps in your passports today. You leave Kyrgyzstan and go into Uzbekistan. Change buses and guides and travel 350km to Tajikistan. This is because Kyrgyzstan has brought in laws concerning contraband including drugs and this has created unrest between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and borders have been closed.This involves dragging bags,showing passports,walking with bags, more passport showing and bag dragging and then getting on another bus. It is quite a performance,isnā€™t it. They were a little suspicious of the Australian passport but after some discussion,decided all was okay.

A new day and a new country

How did you cope with the early start? It was great that the whole group was ready to leave five minutes before the departure deadline. Yes , it was dark and you couldnā€™t see anything till sunrise and by then we were at the border.

Where did that fog come from?
River that divides Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

It was funny how our guide did a Pinocchio . She said to the officials we were late for a plane. So we zoomed past 12 other buses and went through passport control.

A river separates the two countries Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. On the other side of the border was the sign Leninskoy.

Welcome to Kyrgyzstan

How flat the countryside is but ringed with spectacular.mountains. Agriculture is the main industry but there are no fences. Ā Horses are raised here for meat or for riding along with cattle,sheep,and goats. During summer the animals are taken to summer feeding areas and looked after by a shepherd. As it is mid autumn, all the animals are returning to the villages.

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Each area is often marked with a statue.

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Advertising on the sides of the hillsā€¦made with painted rocks

Rock colours in the canyon are interesting going from red to Ā black to sand with bands in some formations.

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Toilet stop. Donā€™t forget to pay and yes it probably is a squat toilet.

Ā I liked the petroglyphs, did you? Goats were definitely the main theme but you would expect that as they were food and were going to be hunted. My favourite were the ancient Turkish grave markers. A wine glass for a life well lived and a sword for bravery. The stone marker, Iā€™m sure was to keep the dead from coming back to get you.All the Turkish markers are BC.

Issy kul petroglyphsĀ 



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A quick stop at the hippodrome that was the location of the nomadic games. These are nomadic skill testing games on horseback or involved in hunting so you and I would not qualify. One game is like polo but they use a dead goat or sheep instead of the usual bat and ball.When it is a local competition think up to 700 men on horseback all fighting to grab that dead animal or skin and take it to the goal. Rules are now in place ,I am sure you are glad to hear. No thumping the other players and you can not let your horse bite someone or someoneā€™s horse. I still donā€™t think I would like to play even if I could ride and was a man. How about you?

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As we near the city of Karakol , we stopped to look at the lake. The shepherd was sending the cows home for the evening. Yes, he is on horseback .He herds them to the village and they wait at the gate of their house to be let in for the night. Each cow is owned individually by people in the village.Sometimes mum has to come and encourage it to come home.šŸ˜€

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Doesnā€™t look very appealing, does it?

Dinner was funny wasnā€™t it. How did you go making noodles? Mine were okay to start but then they started to break and tangle. FailšŸ™. They were tasty when cooked so I guess our lack of expertise didnā€™t matter.

Getting longer