To Samarkand

You are nearly at the end of the Stans part of the Silk Road. Was it what you expected?  The fashion show was interesting as it was a mix of  traditional and western style dress. No I didn’t buy anything and I don’t think you would swan around the shops in any of the coats either.

Traditional dance costume
Dancers

Today we are leaving the Bukhara province and entering the Qashqadaryo province and travelling across the steppes. Definitely no crops here ……but great as camel food.

Camels! I see camels. They are tethered as they are close to the road . I think they are moved around to eat the remaining grass in the adjoining field.

Been anywhere exciting lately?

Train tracks!

Where is the train?
Bus stop?
The piles of mud walls are the remains of an old city wall

During the Soviet period train tracks were laid to link different areas of Uzbekistan. This means better movement of goods for both the local people and for exports. Uzbekistan as a result is one of the richer Stan country groups.

Next stop , apart from the ‘happy’ stops, is Shakhrisabz. This was an important stop on the Silk Road as it was before the Steppes or first stop after them. It was founded over 2700 years ago. The conqueror Timur built a summer palace ,Koba Caravanserai, here.

All but part of the main gates was destroyed in a huge earthquake.

 

Tile work

Floor tiles
Suggested appearance of summer palace
Timur

It was huge and evidence of the power and wealth of Timur.  139 rooms , entertainment areas and service areas occupied the site……this is what you get when you conquer people, take their wealth and get a few thousand slaves to do your bidding.

Timur’s eldest son was killed in battle and Timur built a mausoleum  to show his grief. The tile work is amazing. 

 

Tree planted in 1342

 

 

 

Pilgrim accommodation

 

The rolls madam?

Too tired to walk around the complex( it has hotels and is a holiday spot)? Take an electric bus!

It has been a long day in the bus hasn’t it but we are finally here and just in time for the light show on the main square.   

Did you sleep well? I did. It’s time to go back to the square and explore the buildings. They were built in the 15th and  17th centuries. AD. Ami Temur built the first with a huge library. Ulugbek was one of Timur’s grandsons. He was a leader and scholar and built the 17th Century buildings.The middle building was never finished  as Ulugbek , was killed.  Both leaders believed in education in the sciences and maths as well as the Quran.All the buildings were designed as teaching and living sites for students. Students attended four days a week for 6 months at a time. Each course lasted 4 years and teachers were encouraged to adapt.

Inside Sher-Dor Madresh ( building on right)

 

 

Tillya-Kori Madresah ( middle building)

Ulugbek-Madrasah

   

 

Print showing students studying

 
As you can see, each building has a central courtyard, I really liked sitting there. It is peaceful and you could imagine the students relaxing after a day of study with their friends.Now the class areas are places with souvenirs for tourists. I hoped you bargained for those scarves you bought.

Last mosque for the day,Bibi khanyi mosque. 

Section of building not renovated after the earthquake.


A bazaar always has a vibrant atmosphere. Let’s do a quick visit and then find a coffee shop. Sound like a plan, yes?

 

   


Samarkand was known for its paper making in ancient times. The paper is still made from the bark of the mulberry tree. Now that is value added….you get silk from the cocoons on the trees and paper from the bark. I am sure they found a use for the wood too. A quick visit to the paper centre…..then a rest till dinner. I know you are suffering overload after all the information we have been given. I am quite confused myself as to which madrasah is which now.

Cars parked 3 deep on main road.
1.Peel the bark off soaked wood
2.Boil for 10 hours till mush
3.Mushy strings
4.Pulp
A water wheel makes the levers pound the pulp
5.Use a screen to pick up pulp, press, and dry. Polish with a flat stone
Dry the paper

We were to visit the mausoleum of Timur called the Gur Emir but the cars are parked 3 deep on the main road as it’s Friday prayer time, A night visit showed how beautiful it is…..perhaps a day visit before we start to Tashkent, what do you think? Till then.

Gur Emir
Gur Emir inside.

 

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