Baku

Are you ready for a jammed packed visit to Baku? There is so much to see in just two days so put some comfortable shoes on because there will be lots of walking on cobblestones. Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan. Like many countries, it was occupied by Russia until the USSR collapsed. The city itself was a small walled city of approximately 1000 people until oil and gas was discovered in the early 1800’s, it is now a population of between 3 and 4 million people.
With oil and gas, came wealth. The newly wealthy built properties that show a distinctive European influence.

The new city that has grown outside the old city walls, is full of ultra modern buildings including the three flames that represent modern Azerbaijan since it has  become independent.

 

Azerbaijan has paid a heavy price for its freedom from Russia. This is reflected in the Martyrs Avenue. 200 civilians were killed in 1990 when the Russians tried to subdue the independence movement. Hillside Park also commemorates the Ottomans whose graves were destroyed, soldiers lost in war and the civilians.
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Next stop, the Old City known as Ichael Sheher. This is the site of the Shirvanshah’s Palace, Maidens Tower and Caravanserai ( an ancient trading and accommodation place and now shops).There are so many interesting things to see, don’t you agree . Shame we don’t have more time to explore.

Do you think you would like to live in the Palace. I wouldn’t. It seemed dark and airless. Small rooms, servants below and minimal areas to enter are great for protection but comfortable, I don’t think so.

The Caspian Sea once reached close to the city walls. There has been some debate about the purpose of the Maiden’s Tower . Since there is a well inside it, perhaps it was an in case of watchtower ,come safe house. Going up? It’s only 150 steps.

 

Did you notice these fun sights? There are so many vendors, interesting streets and buildings and so little time. Oh well….

 

 

Most sculptures are pleasant to look at and add a viewpoint in and area. This head of a poet also shows aspects of his life that he referred to in his satirical poems.

Just before World War 2, Petroglyphs were discovered by shepherds up in the rocks above the plain.These were explored and protected following the war. Life of the different periods is displayed . From these we know how the people of the time lived and the animals present that were hunted.

 

Through the changes in the types of animals drawn, it is possible to trace when the Caspian Sea retreated, animals disappeared and new animals appeared and were hunted.

The people lived in caves . They purified their water using rocks as filters. Holes ground into the rock shelf were used for cooking or sacrificing animals. The water would percolate through the stones removing any impurities and be collected in containers.

Did you find the mud volcanoes and Yanardag underwhelming? Before gas and oil were removed, both these phenomena where methane gas escape to the surface must have been amazing.  The fire wall is hot though….don’t stand too close.

You can imagine a pre historic group finding it and believing it was some super power being gifted to them and becoming fire worshippers. The fire temple certainly shows how trade and religion can combine. First the fire worshippers built a temple ,traders passing hear of it. Traders tell people they meet of the magic fire. Indian fire believers come and build a bigger temple. Traders come from the Silk Road and need accommodation ………..the temple grows until the fire doesn’t happen anymore.

Azerbaijan is mainly a Muslim country. It is however secular and so is relaxed about dress and such things as call to prayer. Look at the Bibi-Heybat mosque, you could just wear your hat inside. It was much more relaxed wasn’t it. This mosque has been restored following damage during the Soviet occupation. It has a simple interior of green tiles in the dome.

Oil built wealth for the country . The first rigs were somewhat inefficient and dangerous but the Nobel brothers changed this bringing in new technology, They also brought schools , hospitals and facilities to the area. Their house reflects their love of beautiful and business. They seemed to particularly collect clocks . Azerbaijan oil still contributes to the Nobel prize.

During the occupation, many of the treasures in the Nobel home were taken to Russia. Many have been returned for display in the house again. The Nobel brothers seemed to have really loved clocks.

     

The Culture centre must be one of the most interesting places in Baku.

The combination of permanent carpet and culture display with more temporary exhibits is perfect I think. My favourite was the musical display.

You liked the dolls? Well some were cute.

Carpet making and design is so complex. Seeing the patterns and then the completed work shows the skills needed in this industry.

There is so much to see and explore in and around the surrounding areas. The Green bazaar where everyone shops for fresh produce, the supermarket where you can order your lunch and watch it cooked or the miniature book museum.

You have only just begun…so you might need to visit again but me I’m off to see another part of the country. Coming?