Still in Vancouver

Vancouver is a beautiful city and is considered to be very liveable.
As a tourist you can take the Hop on Hop off bus, travel to the surrounds to the Capilano Suspension Bridge, go to Whistler or Grouse Mountain and of course Victoria and the Butchart Gardens. This time you are taking the Hop on Hop off bus. It gives you the opportunity to see lots of the city and save your feet……I hope you are grateful we  are opting for this. First stop is Stanley Park. A must on both tourist and locals bucket list. See the traditional totems used as clan markers or in ceremonial buildings.Walk the sea wall, ride a bike or go on the horse drawn carriage , jog or take a hiking trail, have a coffee, or even smell the roses( there is 2500 planted)?

The rose garden

You have lots of options. I walked, and then watched the roller skaters, bike and scooter riders going past……the expressions on their faces were really interesting……. panic, exhilaration,determination, happy, miserable….

Horses have always been in the park.

Hungry…..off to Granville Markets. Here is food of every variety or if you are a local, buy the family fruit and vegetables. Flaky pastry in a salmon roll will keep us going, cakes later. You could get back on the bus but why not take one of those cute ferries.

 

There is even live music

Quick let’s get the ferry to Yaletown.

Yaletown was the site of a steam engine workshop. The round house has been converted into space for community activities but the first engine to carry passengers across Canada to Vancouver is displayed here.

A short walk means you can catch the bus to Gastown ( named for the storyteller Gassy Jack) , go to the casino, stadium or to the waterfront, or even back close to your hotel. You seem ready for a rest!

So you have done the tourist thing, today you are going to be like a local. Off to the original train station to get a day pass. Take the sea bus and then on to a 228 bus.You are going to Lynn Canyon park.   This park is on North Vancouver and was saved by the local community as a recreation area. It is beautiful and has hiking trails, an ecology centre , a cafe  and. …….…..a suspension bridge. Not as long or grand as the Capilano suspension bridge but accessible to everyone for free.

Is that a smile or a grimace?

Best of all, it didn’t bounce when someone jumped.

Ship building used to be the main industry of the North Vancouver Lonsdale area. Now it is limited to a floating dock at one end. Restaurants, apartments and open space now fill the space. It is a vibrant community hub.   

    Now before we leave Lonsdale, two houses are ready for Halloween.

Halloween ready

With Halloween at least 8 weeks  away , imagine what they do for Xmas.

Are we scary?
Mariner building

Back to the city and we finally got to see inside the Mariner building. This was the first skyscraper in the city. It’s Art Deco style is outstanding Thankfully it will stay part of the city as it has been heritage listed.

Are you nervous about the cruise tomorrow? It will be an experience. Make sure your bag is packed and be ready to have fun!

 

Ready for the fog horns?

 

Welcome back to Vancouver

Well here we are back in Vancouver. Did you enjoy the flight from Anchorage? My luggage arrived so I’m good for clothes. I hope yours arrived because tomorrow morning we are off to Vancouver Island.
How is Vancouver Island different from Vancouver, you ask? Vancouver is the city made up of smaller cities and Vancouver Island is where the government of British Columbia is sited in Victoria, a city at one end of the island. That cleared up the confusion?
Victoria is a tourist destination. It is full of restaurants, shops, the beautiful Empress Hotel and the Legislature building. You can get there by bus,car, ferry or seaplane. We are  boring and taking  the tour bus and ferry You really wanted the seaplane.

Walking from Chinatown you can go down the narrowest street in Victoria. Check out the shops squeezed in or the restaurants, or just shuffle past other tourists.
Lunch was fabulous but time is passing and there are things to see. First a walk pass the Empress…..sorry no time for a fabulous high tea.

 

Emily Carr ,an author and artist.

The carillon in front of the museum
The Legislature building

Ceremonial canoe in the lobby.

The Legislature building was constructed at a similar time to the Empress. It has fabulous stained glass and a rotunda displaying occupations in Canada. It is a truely beautiful building.

Now at the other end of the island is a disused limestone quarry that has undergone extensive changes. You guessed it, the Butchart Gardens.     
Jenny Butchart converted her husband’s limestone quarry into a magnificent garden when all the usable limestone was removed. It is still owned by the family and provides work for local families all year round. The main flower chosen for mass planting this summer was begonias.

Sunken garden
Bog garden
Ross fountain

Rose garden

  Star garden

Japanese garden
Italian garden
Original house,now gift shop and restaurant
Japanese garden

I expect you are tired now…….my feet are! Well we are heading back on the ferry and tomorrow I promise will be a bit slower…..maybe.

Anchorage


Anchorage is one of the main cities of Alaska. Being a high density centre, the city has grown up full of block style buildings, hotels and houses and car parks. It is not a pretty city architecture wise……in fact ,it could be called ugly. The style is basically 1950’s Brutalism. Roads invite each driver to be a formula 1 driver . Even the bus and taxi driver put their foot to the metal and slammed on the brakes at lights. We were glad of seatbelts.

According to the information centre, there are 12 murals, 4 statues and 12 painted bears. We only found one bear. We did find a few murals we like and there were a few interesting statues.

The raven is complementing the bear for its hunting skill.

 

Did you find the visit to the Anchorage Museum fascinating?



I did…….yes we have been to a few but each one offers a different insight into how Alaska sees itself. Is it just a resource source…..a tourist destination…..a wilderness area? How is it facing its cultural history? 
Within the museum there is a section showcasing art and for the children of all ages, a discovery centre. Sinking houses into sand by vibrations was the best! What did you try?

Most outstanding in the museum was a section created by the Smithsonian Institute.For each of the tribal groups that make up the Article environment, there was a static and a visual digital display.

Tlingit, Haida,Tsimshian, Athabaskan, Eyak, Unangax,Sugpiaq, Yup’ik, St Laurence Yupik and Inupiaq are the tribal groups.. A common theme for each of the tribes is to respect the people, animal and plants of your homeland. They will support you and feed you and help your well being. Be positive and thankful. The Eyak  described themselves as the go betweens.  Language  groups were not identical. Revival of language and culture has become important.

Clothing , masks ,tools and utensils were made from materials found in a tribes area. Wood , birch bark, whale bone and spruce roots (for baskets) were all used. Seal gut were also used by all tribes  close to water for parkas and boats. I couldn’t believe how transparent it was….not sure I would be able to clean it and sew it. How are your skills in skin preparation?

Ground squirrel pelts complete with animal tails.
Ground squirrel pelts with strips of caribou fur and decorated with sea otter,red wool and ermine.
Mountain sheep trimmed with wolf and wolverine.
Reindeer trimmed with wolverine.
Sheep wool
Caribou hide with Tlingit beadwork
Crested auklets and guillemot ( birds) skin and trimmed with dog fur
Bears were made of synthetic feathers.

 There was a section showing traditional and modern Alaskan art. Some were simply fun.      
Anchorage as a city feels a bit tired. There are areas of green and trails. These are for walking, jogging , cycling and even mountain bike riding. In winter they are used for cross country skiing.  We took the Chanshtnu Chester Creek Trail. The coastal walk runs for 11 miles along the shoreline . I only managed a small part along the Cook inlet was that you I saw riding past…..or were you the jogger in that blue outfit.

Cooks inlet.

     
Near the railway is a Salmon run. No salmon at this time of the year! You can go fishing off the original trestle bridge. The first train used this bridge into Anchorage.

Salmon run.
Original trestle bridge.

 

 

First train into Anchorage

Mountains edge the city . They invite you to explore the wilderness beyond its limit . So I am not sorry I came to Anchorage but it’s not a favourite, how about you? 
Back to Vancouver tomorrow.

Selfie moment.

Goodbye to Alaskan Rail

Fairbanks-Talkeetna – Anchorage

A simple cabin life for early settlers.

Sorry you didn’t see Denali Mountain, moose or caribou…….. there is a chance but I warn you ,it is mighty slim. Rain has followed us from Fairbanks but the locals said it has been raining on and off since June. You have been sooooo lucky! You have just had the odd light shower that hasn’t stopped you seeing anything. We just had time to visit the Denali Visitors centre before the train left.

Local artists representation of Denali

Crossing Hurricane Gulch and travelling through the mountains and valleys gives you a true understanding of how difficult the building of the Alaskan railway was. Of course the scenery is magnificent.          

     

Trumpeter swans

     



Talkeetna is a historical town. Many of its buildings date back to the early 1900’s. It stays open all year long. Last year there  was so much snow, people’s windows were covered. Light was restricted to special light bulbs and the open door. Short hours of light, travelling 1.5 hours to Wasilla ( the next big town) for supplies makes winter life here hard. You can understand why so many people don’t stay.      

     

       


There are many original log buildings including the Nagley general store. The owner ‘s cat, Stubbs, was the unofficial mayor for many years. He won the position by receiving 7 votes concerning the town being made a ‘city’.He held the position for 20 years.No, I only saw a picture as he died in 2017.


I loved the movies in the local museum it gave you an insight in how people used everything. It is in the original school house. 12 students started and the teacher lived in rooms above the classroom.


 

Inside a trappers cabin

 

 

 

 

 



A. new chair for your family room?

Chair made of Elk,Caribou and aircraft parts

Building the railway was the worst …….they dug out so much rock by hand. The pay was 37.5 cents per hour. Their living conditions were primitive and all for a mere $64 remaining for 6 months work after deductions for necessities like food, accommodation and clothes. This would have to last 6 months until building started again.

Old and modern mountaineers



Would you spend 3 weeks climbing a mountain? They have to acclimatise to the thin air and cold , so spend a few days at each elevation. The National Parks staff that spend a month at a time at the highest camp to help those climbers ,who get injured or suffer altitude sickness , need an award for service or a mental health check!

A few quirky sights and plants before we leave.

   
I see a moose, one of many but all a  bit stilted I’m afraid.

Berries
Trappers?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did find a quilt shop that sold material designed in Alaska.

Anchorage is next! Just a short 4 hour train trip today and then your Alaskan train journey is complete……want more? Come back another time and do the Seward section or go on the Hurricane train.

Denali in a day…and a bit

Autumn has definitely come to the mountains. The journey from Fairbanks to Denali was spectacular. Silver birch are turning yellow, fire weed varies in colour between red, dark maroon and almost black with white feathery seeds,and the tundra goes from orange to red of the dwarf birch, 

   

 

   

   

Two small towns still exist between Fairbanks and Denali. Originally they were developed to service the steam railway and building the road. Their populations are greatly reduced . One town holds an annual competition. They put a tower out on the ice when the river freezes. When the thaw happens ,they bet on the exact time the tower moves 100 feet from where it was tethered.

Osprey nest on old telegraph pole.

Arriving in Denali , you realise that it is the end of the season. Shops are preparing to close and most lodges and restaurants have lost their summer workers to college or other jobs. They are on the countdown…..one week to go. The village itself consists of shops connected to the Princess Hotel but I did find a quilt/papercraft shop.

   

The only Moose we saw🙁

 

Denali National Park is mainly accessed by tours run by the park. Moose, caribou, dall sheep and bears live in the park so we were hoping to see some…anything. We saw bears! Not up close….but 5 bears all doing bear stuff like eating ready for winter.

Bear taking a short cut on the road.

The scenery is spectacular.

   

    

   Tipsy or Drunken forest is the name given to the Spruce forests in Alaska. Because of the permafrost, the tree’s roots can not grow very deep. As the permafrost thaws and refreezes , the roots grow but winds twist the trees in many different directions so they lean over.

I did see caribou today…..on my plate as meatloaf!ps. It tastes like beef.        
Well as the sign says….we will see you tomorrow at Talkeetna. It’s only an hour away on the train.

Still in Fairbanks

Did you enjoy the hot springs? They were very relaxing and didn’t smell too much of sulphur. Sorry I didn’t want to risk my phone so I didn’t get that photo of you.
It was sooo cold in the ice sculpture And I couldn’t imagine having a wedding or sleeping there ( $600 a night ). Sculptures were clever though.

Chena Springs owner is exploring using the springs for his food production and geothermal energy use. The garden had lots of vintage objects.   

Seven o’clock and we have slept in…..must have been the late night….early morning. Northern Lights  appeared!

Back on the Blue bus and off to Pioneer Park. It didn’t open to 12.00pm but we walked around the exhibits. Most of them you can’t enter ,which is a shame that they haven’t developed the Park more. 

Paddle steamer that moved goods and people in area.

Inside Kitty’s house.
Rail carriage that carried the last spike for the rail line



Now I expect you’re going to say Nooooooooo but we are heading to the Information and Cultural Museum. Unlike many museums , this one is designed to help you understand life in Alaska.
There are 200 different tribal groups who have worked together to ensure that they can live their lives in both traditional and modern ways. They still hunt because winters are so long and harsh that it ensures they have food stored in case they cannot get out . They take only what they need, Summer is a time for Pot Latch where  groups will gather, share food and gifts . Winter is the time for families . You leave the museum feeling you can understand how people have learnt to live with the rhythms and harshness of the country. Everyone we spoke to ,who have made Alaska their home, love it despite 3 hours of light and -50 degrees winters.

Did you know that Alaska was invaded during World War 2. I didn’t. The Auit Islands were invaded for a short time. This resulted in the local people being evacuated for the war. Unfortunately the conditions where they were moved or caused many of the young and old to die from illness.

Dinner was at a Moldovan restaurant.

Zary….potato stuffed with chicken.

 

 

Tomorrow we head to Denali. Set your alarm. This is my favourite mural so far. What do you think?

Alaska here we come

I felt very clever negotiating the metro to get to the airport( how about you),  and two flights later ,we are in Fairbanks. Since the town is spread over a vast area( this I am not kidding about), we are catching the local buses. As an added bonus because we are old and ancient, you get to ride free!
Anchorage and Vancouver airport have lots of art and displays to occupy you while you wait for your flight…..and drink your coffee.

   

Flying over Denali National Park,we saw the mountain top above the clouds. Since the weather is stormy here,  it probably will be the only way we see the peak as it is known for being hidden by clouds.

The main tourist attractions in Fairbanks are the Museum of the North, Chena Springs, the Salmon  Bake (finished last weekend), and Pioneer Park. Today you get to explore the Museum and at 1.00am you will be sitting in the Chena hot Springs. Yes ,you can have an afternoon nap. The Museum  has a wide collection of prehistoric and preserved animals from the Alaska region. It also shows different aspects of the indigenous people who made this country their home. I was most surprised by the size of the animals. When you look at them in a book, you think you know how big they are. Sorry if you are like me ,you are mistaken. Alaskan wolves are nearly as tall as me , beavers are the size of a medium dog and grizzlies…..well meet Otto. He is 8feet 4 inches.

Beaver
Black bear
Wolves
Otto.

Now having seen the stuffed animals, I still want to see the living versions….just from the safety of a car, bus or even a train.  Many different indigenous groups live in Alaska and although they have embraced modern jobs, they have kept many of their traditions and languages. Old crafts such as making and decorating traditional clothes are being taught to a new generation so they are not lost. Ceremonies and gatherings still bring opportunities for the tribes to gather and share.

Waterproof parka made of seal gut.

Some items are old but many have been made in the last 20 years. Furs parkas are definitely from another time period . Some moose skin coats and dresses have made by the women of each tribe in recent years. Wasn’t the lynx and beaver fur soft? You can understand why they were hunted. 
It’s time for our pick up. Grab the swimmers. More tomorrow.

Vancouver for a day

Columbia mountains
Fraser River 
Kamloops

Kamloops

Now I know you have been asking, ‘Are we there yet?, because train travel is slow compared to planes. Well it was an uneventful trip through the Canadien Trench. This is a wide ,flattish river valley that runs through the Rockies and Columbia mountains. We didn’t pick up or drop off too many passengers and there was fewer stops for freight trains. VIA rail factor up to 28 hours into their schedule to allow for problems. Today we arrived in Vancouver on time…..give or take an hour or two😁😄🤣

 

Break out the raincoats,it’s pouring. Yes, we are coming back to Vancouver but you can at least stop grumbling,  put on your raincoat and let’s go for a walk to the waterfront. The hotel is in one of the streets that run the length of the city, Robson street. Today we will walk to the waterfront ,sus out the COVID testing place and tomorrow we will explore. Like most cities Vancouver is skyscrapers heaven. Some of the original buildings remain but mostly it’s modern  buildings.

Original Railway Station…now metro.
Railway station murals
Art Deco historical building
Art Deco building in the centre seen from above

Gas town
Gas town

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gas town is a historical area. It is known for the steam clock and artistic vibe. Sadly the backstreets  are also areas where the homeless hangout. The Australians are there ….there is a boot shop right opposite the OK Boulet shop

Steam clock.It has steam whistles

Most people live in apartments. There is not much open space close to the buildings but as Vancouver city is organised ,no building is that far from the sea wall or small open area.

What ran into this building?😀

     Even the schools and colleges are in multi-storey buildings. Many of the high rise buildings have shops, community and child care facilities.

 Did you enjoy the walk along the sea wall? I especially liked some of the art and quirky things we saw.

   

Floating homes

Canadien geese

A chandelier under a bridge.

  

Sore feet? We leave for Alaska tomorrow morning and we return to Vancouver in a week ,so you can go have a rest now ready for the plane journey.

To Banff and back

Jasper National Park connects lots of small towns. Most of these entertain campers and hikers in summer and skiers in winter. They are connected by the Icefield Parkway. The scenery as drive along the Parkway is stunning. Think soaring mountains, wide river valleys, lakes and glaciers. Many of the rivers are brown with silt at present because of heavy rain.      
We passed the Columbia icefield ,  Lake Wildflower and Louise      The glaciers are gradually shrinking. The blue of the water is created by the glacier water mixing with the limestone in the rock. This forms ‘rock flower’ but don’t drink the water as it is a natural laxative. Maybe don’t swim either as the water even at the moment is -4 degrees.

Columbia Icefield   
First Natural Museum in Alberta

Banff is a tourist town. It has a fantastic transport system of small electric buses that makes it easier for both tourists and locals to get around the area. There are a few historical buildings but the outstanding feature of the town is a garden called the  Cascades gardens’ It was donated by its founder to the National Park.  

 




Gardens not for you? Let’s walk by the  Bow river, then  I promise we will go eat. I know you are starving.

Time to eat…walk down the street, the catch the bus back to Jasper. Don’t you remember, we are catching the train to Vancouver tomorrow.

      Brunch!
French toast made with sourdough bread and stuffed with cream cheese and berries. Ignore the calories! Enjoy!

Now how are you going on animal spotting? I spy ……a moose…..some male elk……some female elk……some big horn sheep….and some Canadian geese. Photos to show you..zilch, none .Sorry. Let’s go to Vancouver 

 

 

 

Jasper

Jasper is a historical area that has been occupied by various people since the glaciers scoured out the valley. The original indigenous settlers had homes along the river.. next came the fur traders and then the Europeans. When the railway was built many people of different cultures arrived. This also opened up the area for more settlers and movement of resources to major cities .When the national park was set up many of the original indigenous residents were asked to move from the river areas.
Everywhere you look, majestic mountains rise up.    

Information centre built in a frontier style in 1928

 

They couldn’t decide on the name!

  It is a tourist town being the gateway to Jasper National Park.

Outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy fishing ( no , I know not you,) rafting, camping, and hiking. Once we did the tourist thing and walked past the shops , we did the latter. Yes it is sooooooo hot ,30+ degrees, so we decided on the discovery trail.     
It skirts around the mountain surrounding the township. Yes I know it is steep but just think of the fresh air , and remember all those yummy desserts on the train.      
Now wasn’t that worth the 7.4km hike. There are warnings for bears and we did see a camera set up to check for signs.    We just saw moose and bear scat, but I am not complaining.    The walk ends back at the town although there’s the option of going further up the hill. Yes I can see the Tim Hortons and yes we will check out the donuts.

Bear scat
Moose scat
Maple glazed beats Boston Cream.

Jasper historical railway station is next on the trail. It is made from the rounded glacier rocks that are used extensively throughout the town. 

    Next is a totem for the town. It tells the story of two brothers who leave home to explore.

Homes in the area are mainly wood but stone is used frequently in foundations, basement ,gardens or architectural features. Most have fences to keep out unwanted furry visitors, namely bears.

So an interesting town when you look beyond the shops. Off to Banff tomorrow so be ready for another day of exploring.

Come Join us on our travels!