Seward

Seward is. deep water port in Resurrection Bay. The township nestles in a valley surrounded by mountains so enjoys the scenery of many of Alaskan sea ports. It has the added advantage having a rail line to Anchorage. This was important for transport goods and exporting fish in earlier times. A famous dog sled race (Iditarod Trail) starts here and commemorates  the transport link into inland Alaska.

We are enjoying typical Southern Alaskan weather……rain. This meant we scurried into the Alaskan Sea Life Centre. This is brilliant! As you walk around ,you can see living aquariums. I am having fun identifying and finding the different animals.

Different environments are shown and you can touch sea urchins, anemones and starfish. The starfish are soft when you run your fingers along them. Anemones tickle and no , I won’t touch the sea  urchins.

Look at these Cuties
Now did you see….

Are you eavesdropping?

The Kelp and giant octopus were fascinating too.

Kelp
This octopus grows to 5m
Carefully does it

There are large animals such as seals, sea lions and birds…..including  everyone’s favourite, the puffin. No sea otters☹️ as the large animals are part of a study or rescued animals.

Stellar sea lions.
Puffins!

I imagine in Summer,Seward is a bustling tourist hub but rain and the end of the season …..it is quiet.

Great door on closed restaurant.

A train?
A new use for old carriages

Look a spot of blue as we leave and a distant glacier. Kodiak tomorrow let’s hope that sunset means fine weather.

Valdez

 

Valdez is surrounded by the Chugach Mountains in the Prince William Sound. As you can see….today was not showing Valdez at its best. When I asked at the Visitors Centre, this is normal weather or snow. Imagine winter….snow and dark You would have to be resilient.

To survive in Valdez ,  it has always been difficult. It was sold as a gateway to the Klondike…..straight up a glacier.     Not easy!

Eventually they built a road up Thompson Pass ….around the glacier…..but travel was not easiest. A horse drawn wagon..at least the furs will help. It did become a trade port , with some tourism.


In 1964 disaster happened. ( Yes ,we are in a museum….it’s raining.) There was an earthquake. Anyone on the wharf was lost.The whole area was affected. A local village ,that had been built in 1770 ,was destroyed with half the population by the tsunami that followed.

Before
After. Docks and land gone

The town was evacuated and moved….literally , 52 houses were transported to New Valdez. All the remaining buildings were burnt. It must have felt like losing the town all over again. People started again
So I did find it amazing that they had their three original fire trucks. One even went to a fire.

Too heavy
Not enough water

 

Where is the hydrant?

Local history really well displayed, don’t you think ?  The model of the old town showing all the streets was spectacular. 

Now the other museum was totally different. It was based on a collection of two women. They used to go out to the remote villages. They were greeted like family and offered artifacts , beautiful handicrafts and art. Maxine would bring supplies and pay for the objects.
Suddenly you are trying to decide what would you collect…what is valuable to you?
 Maxine had a gift shop that sold all the objects to tourists. The art changed according to the demand for souvenirs. Masks, scrimshaw, carvings, dolls , arrowheads or clothing , what would you choose ? They were beautiful.  Better still, it gave a way local artists could be recognised for traditional skills and supplement their income.Now we would just get a tshirt, probably made in some other country and just printed with an Alaskan design.

Scrimshaw
Masks
Dolls

Hunting trophies? 1929 it cost $1347 to go hunting for a week.That’s over $25,000 today.You could keep the skin and have it mounted or treated, but the skull went to a museum.It was your chance to be a frontier person. I think I’ll miss. You too?

 

 
Maxine had collected an amazing range of taxidermy animals.I thought they were beautiful even though  I wouldn’t want one on my wall.Look at this face…so cute.

Valdez became important again in March 1989. The Exxon Valdez ran aground and oil spilt . The extent the oil spread was over a thousand miles. People came from everywhere and Valdez was a centre point for the operation.The only good thing that came from this is the research facility in Seward.  It rehabilitates injured marine life and provides a facility to educate and research Arctic marine life. So no museum tomorrow. I promise you will even get to touch animals.

Sitka

Were you glad to be walking in a forest and by the sea,( but not while floating on it)? Sitka has a long history of settlers. The Tlingit people had long enjoyed the little islands and milder climate of the area. It only gets 30cm of snow in winter so it’s winters are mild compared to the rest of Alaska.

Did you enjoy the history told through a mosquito……and dance. It was so clever.
Russians discovered the area. They realised that the sea otters in the area were valuable.
They called them soft gold. Little remains to show their influence apart from the St Michaels Cathedral……we were too late to see inside. There is a Russian Xmas gift shop if you need a Babushka  doll set.

Tlingit and Russians had different ideas about sustainable hunting so went to war. Tlingits won but left the area until the Russians asked them to come back……not sure why but could have been for the hunting.
Once the soft gold ran out , the Russians sold Alaska for 2cents an acre to the Americans. Neither side wanted the British to have it. The deal was signed…..yes you guessed….in Sitka. Where it was signed  burnt down and it is just a lookout now,

Wow look at the salmon jump!
Of all the towns we have visited, this is the prettiest. You can walk to the forest complete with bears and totems. The sea wall gives spectacular views of the tiny islands in the bays. Fishing and tourism may be the main industries but it is beautiful.     

Bead detail on Tlingit ceremonial coat
Totems in Heritage Park

There are some interesting sights around the town like a 1950’s soda fountain in the chemist shop.
     The town has many Tlingit symbols.



   
Sitka was definitely a cute heritage town. Are you hoping for a sunny day tomorrow to see the glacier?  Me too!

Glacier Bay National Park

GlacierBay is a beautiful Heritage Site. There are magnificent mountains ,waterfalls, rock faces, and glaciers. Although there are 10 tidewater glaciers we can only see two because of the wind and rain. 

John Hopkins Glacier.
Close up o glacier taken through a binocular lens
Rendu glacier

 

There are lots of sea lions, otters ,bears ,moose ,bald eagles and whales ……so the rangers say. Spotted one orca swimming past and some sea otters. No photos ,they swim  fast and sensibly see this big white thing looming down towards them and say, let’s disappear. 
Look at the change in water colour as the sea meets the glacial waters. 

Now if you have any energy left after competing for the perfect photo with 300 other people, you can always relax with a drink. Yummy hot chocolate was offered while we looked at the glacier and braved the wind. Tea, coffee or something stronger is available in the many seating areas. Usually there is live music as well. There are interesting talks during the day but if you are looking for a more lively entertainment, at night  there is generally a show. We saw a ventriloquist.

 

Skagway

Skagway is a deep water port that provides access to materials needed by the Yukon population . It is also to ship ore to other ports. It was built in the gold rich era and has maintained it historical appearance. There are wooden sidewalks in front of all the shops. Being Sunday, they are mostly closed. Sorry retail therapy on another day.         

Gold is discovered in the Klondike. To get there you catch a boat to Skagway, then you can choose…….walk and climb the Chinook trail or travel a longer but ‘easier’ path through White Pass. Which will you choose ? Before  you decide , you need a bit more information. You are going to carry in 1 tonne of supplies to help you survive the winter. The Canadian Mounties will be checking you have enough supplies.You will have to make a boat to cross the river. White  Pass will take horses but the path is narrow.

It’s hell

Now decide….or perhaps catch that ship back home.
Not miners ? Can’t afford the steamship? Don’t  panic!!!! There are jobs!

They had so many prospectors and horses die that they built a railway. Do you have a head for heights? You would have needed it as they would lower three men down the granite walls on ropes with a drill. Two men would hit the drill while the third held it. When they made a big enough hole,they stuffed it with explosives…added a fuse and scrambled up to he top mighty quick. It’s okay ….you are just going on the historical railway.


   
Despite the pea soup fog…….the views though fleeting, are magnificent. It certainly gives you a insight into the desperation, foolhardiness or adventurous nature of the people who climbed the pass and settled Skagway.    

Now trains may not be your thing so we are taking  the vintage Street car(  built in 1929 ) for a quick trip around the town. The trip comes with stories of seedy characters who occupied the town.     One was Soapy Smith who took money from people by playing on their emotions ( he set up a telegraph office for miners to message family but the messages never left the office. Replies, supposedly from family, always asked for money ,that went to Soapy) He did meet a violent end at the hand of a hero who it turns out was wanted for crimes elsewhere.

Tomorrow you can rest. We will be sailing in the Glacier Bay. Off to bed now.

Juneau

Juneau is the capital of Alaska. Surprising when as the locals say there are only 3 ways to get here: plane, ship, or be born here. It is a good frontier town…or would like that reputation. Buildings originally were built over water (like in Ketchikan) and then on gravel from the residue of gold mining. Some of the streets are stairs.


Tourists come to Juneau because glaciers are so close to town. In fact tourists have been coming to see the glaciers since the 1800’s so consider yourself in good company.

Ice floating in Mendenhall Lake

Mendenhall Glacier  reflected in the Lake.


The glacier from the Brotherhood bridge. The bridge marks the division between urban and rural areas of Juneau. Look at the rafters coming down the Mendenhall River. Don’t fall in the water is cooooolllldddd.

Tomorrow is vintage rail car and motor car in Skagway. The rail is a narrow gauge rail that was originally built to transport gold miners and their equipment from the port to White Pass .Hope you are looking forward to exploring Skagway.

 

Ketchikan, Alaska

Ketchikan is a colourful town clinging to the sides of the sloping mountains and woodlands of Tongans National Forest. It is on an island so access is by air or boat. As it is the ‘First City’, it is visited frequently by tourist ships, consequently it is full of souvenir and jewellery shops. 

 Once you are past them , you head for the historical area . This is Creek Street. It gained a reputation as an area of  ill repute in the 1900’s. Many of the houses in Ketchikan were built on piers because it was so difficult to build on the rock.

   
In the creek we saw seals fishing.Excuse the grainy photo but it was raining quite hard.

The creek has a salmon ladder leading to a fish hatchery. Once the fish spawn, they die which explains the interesting odour .

Originally the town was separated by a hill known as Nobs hill because the wealthy lived there. People would walk around a wooden plank footbridge to houses and shops on the other side.A tunnel was built through the hill giving everyone free access. Now you can go under, over around or through the hill.Some streets though run along or up the hill. On this stairway halfway up ,horizontally,  is Bayview Street, while the vertical stairs are Barber Street. I wonder if the supermarket would deliver my groceries.   
The town is known for its totems and art.

The Thunder Bird ,symbol of the town

The rock showing the Tlingit welcoming visitors

Despite the rain, you are off to Potlatch Park this afternoon. When a tribe had a gathering, they would have a clan house and areas for guests to stay. It has important totems for storytelling and perhaps a carving area. We are visiting the Raven clan potlatch.

Main lodge.
Visitor lodge

Entrance into the main clan building is generally small. This was a safety feature as women, children and old members of a clan would be better able to protect themselves if attacked while the men were hunting or fishing.

The buildings and totems are hand carved which gives the wood an interesting texture but they are incredibly smooth.
Welcome totems. Middle face welcomes you to place.
Guard face

      All totems are made of red cedar. When they start to rot , they are taken down and put into a forest. Here they start to provide homes for moss and new trees.Tomorrow is Juneau. Look sky has some clear bits…..maybe less rain. Fingers crossed.

Two days at sea

Ready? It your first day at sea. Today we travel through the passage that separates Vancouver Island from the mainland. It is a busy waterway with vessels of all sizes using it. There used to be a huge rocky outcrop in the middle of it but after many shipwrecks,it was blown up. The biggest non nuclear explosion in history.

First I think the laundry needs doing….we can put it on while we go to breakfast.

Hurrah ,there is lots of fresh fruit especially blueberries and strawberries ……there is other healthy and not so healthy choices….you can choose.

Collect laundry.

Now there is a talk, a fibre arts…..alias for knitting and crochet……a art class, games or origami……Me I’m off to the art class …what will you be doing? See you at lunch.

Now a movie, more art, a nap or trivia. No you don’t get a prize for guessing art. We are doing watercolour splodges to create a feeling to what we are seeing……looks just like splodges but it’s fun.

I think we should go for a walk…afternoon tea in the Wintergarden?Okay.

Definitely a walk ….at least four times  around the deck. I have managed 6.4km.

Check out tomorrow’s programme…..

Dinner…..more talks or we could go to one of the lounges and listen to music. But perhaps we can look at it on the tv in the cabin. Tonight we leave Canadien waterways and enter the American Alaskan waters. 
Day 2 at sea.

 

A repeat of Day 1 but art class based on totem pole character,.and no laundry to do. Ichose a wolf , but as the day started as a pea souper………sky grey, mountains grey, water grey… the art teacher wasn’t impressed with my grey interpretation….she wanted colour and patterns . I did a second one to make her happy in red and orange.

Sun is out and we can see the distant Alaskan mountains.
Tomorrow we arrive in Ketchikan. In the morning ,we can wander around the town. In the afternoon we go to a Potlatch. This is a traditional gathering with singing and dancing. Raincoats out. Rain is predicted.

Ready to sail!

Bags packed …..we are heading for Canada Place where the cruise terminal is located…….quick detour for one last Tim Hortons l

Drop of Bags

Join Queue to go into USA. Why don’t my fingerprints register properly ?

Security check queue.

Embarkation queue….credit card …..yes, negative COVID test….yes……passport …yes. You can board….have a good trip.

Time for a quick tour of the ship. It’s all beautiful with lots of places to sit and relax…….lunch….perhaps just a snack.

Atrium…..music and a quiet drink?

Main  lounge( library here too)

One of many outdoor areas.

World dining…..check out the cakes and ice ream..6 flavours

Now for entertainment,,,,movies, lectures,swimming pools, putt putt, bowls , bocce, or traditional shuffle ball…or checkers etc. You are spoilt for choice. And sea days there’s craft ( hurrah,  Mike is soooo pleased   I will have something to do), talks or you can watch movies.

Infinity pool

Bags arrived. Time to actually unpack…our home for the next three weeks.

Lion Gate bridge

We are sailing. Alaska here we come..again but a different part.

 

 

Come Join us on our travels!