Quebec to Montreal

Village of poverty art.

Quick goodbye to the river….or so we thought and then on the train.
Thought you might find this amusing   on the track through the Plains of Abraham.Did you know that the dirt area that becomes an ice fishing activity in winter ( remember that one) , it is an underground reservoir. It also used to be the site of an armaments factory. This was converted into homes during the depression and became known as the Village of Poverty or Misery. The washing line is suppose to remind people of that time.

Beside the river


As you can see the scenery was beautiful. The countryside is agricultural and punctuated by the Laurence river and its tributaries. I’m sure we crossed the StLaurence at least twice. Now collect the luggage ( they have a carousel system similar to the  airport) and grab a taxi. What were your first impressions of the city? I thought it appears to be a very busy city of skyscrapers, cars  and construction work…….we will see tomorrow when we head out to explore it. Let’s start early 8.00am suit?

Quebec to Montreal

Village of Poverty Art installation.

Quick goodbye to the river….or so we thought and then on the train.
Thought you might find this amusing   on the track through the Plains of Abraham.Did you know that the dirt area that becomes an ice fishing activity in winter ( remember that one) , it is an underground reservoir. It also used to be the site of an armaments factory. This was converted into homes during the depression and became known as the Village of Poverty or Misery. The washing line is suppose to remind people of that time.  

Well it’s train time….comfortable seats…. relax…………take in the scenery…….remember…..   

Beside the river

    



    

   
As you can see the scenery was beautiful. The countryside is agricultural and punctuated by the Laurence river and its tributaries. I’m sure we crossed the StLaurence at least twice. Now collect the luggage ( they have a carousel system similar to the  airport) and grab a taxi. What were your first impressions of the city? I thought it appears to be a very busy city of skyscrapers, cars  and construction work…….we will see tomorrow when we head out to explore it. Let’s start early 8.00am suit?

         

Quebec City

Don’t forget to push the blue sixtyexpress so you can check out the pictures.

How is your French? Mine is Australian school level so ‘trés terrible’,luckily most people in the city speak English or at least some. The province of Quebec which includes both Quebec and  Montreal won the right to speak French after the war between the
English and the French for Canada. The Quebec area had been mainly settled by French. The French separatists in the Halifax region were sent to the small island off the coast.
The old city is walled. Three of the four gateways still exist.
Being ancient we started the day with breakfast in the ‘Buffet de Antiquaire ‘ and are having dinner in ‘Restaurant aux anciens. Canadien’.
Who knew caramel on toast was a thing…..the jam was great too.The restaurant Anciens serves traditional Canadien food and is in one of the oldest buildings in the city.

So we are doing the traditional sightseeing bit…….a walk around the waterfront, a ferry ride across the St Laurence river ( St Lawrence for the English) and a bus tour of the city. Do you realise you have now crossed this river by car, boat and train? Amazing and it still looks super wide. So lots of photos of buildings , streets , statues and gardens…..some of which are so clever in the way they create pictures.


Starting with the waterfront….there is a wide promenade that runs in front of the Fairmont hotel.  At the end of the promenade ,there is a steep hill with a fortress ( star shaped and called the Citadel). No you are not visiting it so don’t get that look. On the promenade is a beautiful statue and two amazing floral displays. Those butterflies are made from succulents

Now from here you can choose the funicular or the stairs …… going down stairs is easier than climbing them……funicular up.

 

At the bottom is the waterfront and oldest buildings. The streets are narrow and some are still cobblestones. some streets are completely closed to vehicles for parts of the day.Aren’t you glad we started early so you can get pictures early before the crowds arrive.Summer is the main tourists season and the city is alive with performing artists and tourists.

 

 

The Citadel from the water

The Fairmont or Frontenac viewed from the water.

Here is the ferry……the quickest way across the river.

 

 

 

A city’s history

During the war , many of the buildings near the waterfront were damaged by cannon fire. They were rebuilt and murals have been added to some to show the history of the city.

Every one seems to have added flowers for the summer season though I would be reluctant to park my car under these stairs.

 

 

Time to take the funicular up to the top.

The Parliament House is in a similar style to the Frontenac  but the statues on it show the important figures in Canadian history. I think those figures come alive at night and have a good gossip about us tourists.

There are even statues of women who contributed to Quebec politics.Now gardens in government buildings are usually formal….and there are some of these but there is a massive vegetable and herb garden  in the left side of the front.This provides produce for the parliament restaurant which only uses produce from the Province.

I am not a statue.

The Citadel was a French fortress even if built in an English style. It’s defences were to the water. The English sent units of soldiers up the cliffs behind the fortress to an area known now as the Plains of Abraham. The French were defeated in 20 minutes.Both the commanding generals were killed.The battlefields are now public places.
You can hike,walk, run and  picnic in summer. In winter it becomes a cross country ski area. The dirt area in the photo becomes a frozen lake with fish. You can go ice fishing. Don’t want your fish…put it back for someone else to catch?

Now the guides have conferred and said it’s snack time…..then a rest before dinner.

Now that’s a snack

 

 

 

 

 

What did you choose for dinner? Here is the menu to remind you………………

What did you choose for dinner?
Here is the menu to remind you………………oops perhaps the English version. Tomorrow we are on the train to Montreal. It is a commuter train so a new experience.

Train 1: Halifax to Quebec on the Ocean


So far so good, tickets scanned, lunchtime allocated and we are ready to board. Train will arrive in Quebec just a little bit late ……2 hours. Great for us but not those going to Montreal. We get to arrive at 8 instead of 6. You get an extra hour or so of sleep depending on whether you want breakfast or not……I’ll be in the dining car.
The accommodation is compact but you get your own wet room and the seats are comfy don’t you think. We managed to fit your backpack in the cupboard if you are looking for it. 
Masks are still being worn on trains except if you are eating. Don’t leave the cabin room open or you will be in trouble from the attendant if you are not wearing a mask. We copped it a few times😒😞

The dining car is 5 carriages up from your room. There is a small lounge with wifi too. What did you choose for lunch….the clam chowder followed by chicken and mushrooms, the salmon salad or the rigatoni? I skipped the chowder but the chicken was excellent. Pecan pie for dessert. If you are in a sleeper carriage, all meals are included in your fare. Non sleeper passengers have to bring their own food at present. In the past , they could go to the dining car and pay.
➡️       ⬇️
How do you feel having a train line in your backyard. Some houses are built right up to the tracks. Much of the land is marshy and the houses are built on high points. As we move towards Quebec , houses are becoming more single story ranch style rather than two storey. Land that is not as wet , appears to be cleared for agriculture.       ↙️

 

 

Night!
zzzzzzzzzzzz
Wake up! It’s morning and I won’t ask how you slept😵‍💫

Update, ranch style houses were only for swampy areas, we are back to storybook houses and the land is cleared for grain crops. Farms appear to be small as the houses are only a few paddocks apart. Each seems to have a stainless steel topped rocket shaped concrete silo.

Early start but as the train was delayed for an hour and half we had time for breakfast before getting off to get the connecting bus to Quebec station.  
It was amusing watching Mike try to drink his coffee as the train lurched from side to side at 130 kmh. Will it get to his mouth or down his jumper?

Success!    I don’t have to wash it. Ready for Quebec City ?

 

 

Saturday in Halifax……try 2

 

Feel the wind on your face, hear the splash. You are on the ferry crossing the Narrows to Dartmouth
The trip only takes 10 minutes. I think it must be a monotonous job for the ferry drivers. Dartmouth ,we decided must have been the up market part of Halifax in times past. The houses are larger two storey dwellings. Most of these are now divided into flats…..there was 10 in one. Definitely no room to ‘swing that cat’, strange expression that. There are cute shops, pretty gardens and of course murals. Halifax is known for the sort trail through all the suburbs.

Don’t you think the shingle design is appropriate?

These are made of lobster crates.

 

 

This propeller is from an icebreaker. Two blades sheared off when it was stuck in ice . The ice was 5 metres thick.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once back in downtown Halifax, we explored more of the art in Barrington and Hollis streets. Some is amazing. Feeling  you have seen enough, you can relax in the Public Gardens.

Even in the bus stop..

 

Can you see the sail boat?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Xylophone flowers.

Who is going to trim this plant ,I ask?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Who said herbs and vegetables weren’t decorative.

30 acres was set aside for park lands and a Victorian formal garden, in the 1800’s. It is still a relaxing place to walk..and perhaps have a meal in the tea house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting to be interviewed.

Are you like me and have  information overload? Sorry but we have one more stop, the Immigration Museum. Canada has had a similar history of migration to Australia. This museum does tell you this in a clear way. The best thing though I felt was the discussion of what  people felt and how much do they bring with them. What do they choose: practical or sentimental? Look at the faces, nervous? Worried? Anxious? You future is in the hands of an officer who will ask you questions about where you come from , why have you come and why Canada. Your colour,   ethnicity  , political ideals and skills will be judged. You will the then have to pass a health examination.
Look at the packing case size and what one family put into it. In most cases, the family will not return to their home country and will only have photos and letters to keep the connection with their families.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now ,we have not managed to find maple syrup doughnuts but we will test present flavours and vote on the best. Today honey glaze and honey Grueler sampled. Honey glaze is better

A donair….mmmmm….interesting

Halifax has an official food called a Donair. This is like a kebab with just meat,tomato and onion in a wrap. It has a sweet sauce of condensed milk, vinegar and garlic. We tried it….interesting.

 

 

Pack your bag tonight. We are on the train to Quebec tomorrow . Don’t forget just carryon can go with you and the big bags are booked.

 

 

Saturday……art, immigrants and…

Hi there is some problem with the website….tech people don’t know answer. Click on the sixtyexpress and it will send you to the website.
Feel the wind on your face, hear the splash. You are on the ferry crossing the Narrows to Dartmouth
The trip only takes 10 minutes. I think it must be a monotonous job for the ferry drivers. Dartmouth ,we decided must have been the up market part of Halifax in times past. The houses are larger two storey dwellings. Most of these are now divided into flats…..there was 10 in one. Definitely no room to ‘swing that cat’, strange expression that. There are cute shops, pretty gardens and of course murals. Halifax is known for the sort trail through all the suburbs.

Don’t you think the shingle design is appropriate?

These are made of lobster crates.

 

 

This propeller is from an icebreaker. Two blades sheared off when it was stuck in ice . The ice was 5 metres thick.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once back in downtown Halifax, we explored more of the art in Barrington and Hollis streets. Some is amazing. Feeling  you have seen enough, you can relax in the Public Gardens.

Even in the bus stop..

 

Can you see the sail boat?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Xylophone flowers.

Who is going to trim this plant ,I ask?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Who said herbs and vegetables weren’t decorative.

30 acres was set aside for park lands and a Victorian formal garden, in the 1800’s. It is still a relaxing place to walk..and perhaps have a meal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting to be interviewed.

Are you like me and have  information overload? Sorry but we have one more stop, the Immigration Museum. Canada has had a similar history of migration to Australia. This museum does tell you this in a clear way. The best thing though I felt was the discussion of what  people felt and how much do they bring with them. What do they choose: practical or sentimental? Look at the faces, nervous? Worried? Anxious? You future is in the hands of an officer who will ask you questions about where you come from , why have you come and why Canada. Your colour,   ethnicity  , political ideals and skills will be judged. You will the then have to pass a health examination.
Look at the packing case size and what one family put into it. In most cases, the family will not return to their home country and will only have photos and letters to keep the connection with their families.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now ,we have not managed to find maple syrup doughnuts but we will test present flavours and vote on the best. Today honey glaze and honey Grueler sampled. Honey glaze is better

Halifax has an official food called a Donair. This is like a kebab with just meat,tomato and onion in a wrap. It has a sweet sauce of condensed milk, vinegar and garlic. We tried it….interesting.

 

 

Pack your bag tonight. We are on the train to Quebec tomorrow . Don’t forget just carryon can go with you and the big bags are booked.

 

Photos not showing up. Click on the blue sixtyexpress  on top right  hand side. It will take you to the website. tach people don’t know why it’s playing up.

 

Exploring downtown Halifax

Halifax boasts that it has the longest Harbourside boardwalk in the world. We certainly explored it today. 11000 steps and one blister later you can now be awarded a certificate for walking its length. I love how right along the boardwalk are brightly coloured chairs , picnic tables and murals. Every new or renovated building has to include some type of public art…..a statue, mural or display. The atmosphere is vibrant with both locals and tourists enjoying the area.
The city is the capital of the province of Nova Scotia. It has been able to retain some of its historical buildings although many of course were lost in the massive explosion of 1917. There is an extensive pedi way that joins from the modern towers , office blocks , hotels and extends over major roadways. A pedi way is a covered walkway. This must be a boon in winter with the temperatures they experience, don’t you think.

Old bonds stores with new purposes.

 


Were you impressed? I found you a maritime museum since you will miss the Tokyo one. Halifax has created a Museum of the Atlantic. This region has always had a maritime history dating back to the birch covered canoes of the indigenous Mi’kmaq people. Yes there were models of ships, but more interesting, well to me , was the section on the Titanic and the explosion. As I said previously, the explosion happened when two ships collided in the narrows.

The pictures show the before and after for the church in the area . Shrapnel and parts of the exploded ship were found up to 8 kilometres away from the explosion site. Pieces still turn up today buried in the ground or in buildings that could be repaired.

 

 

 

You and I both know the story of the Titanic and have seen at least one documentary or fictionalised movie. Halifax was the nearest city to the ship. They expected the casualties to be brought to the city but the survivors were taken to New York. Instead Halifax got the job of collecting the dead and the debris. Many were identified and returned to families but despite best efforts , others weren’t and were buried . Artefacts are displayed showing the opulence and disparity between the passengers. To avoid scavengers , clothes and belongings that could not be returned were destroyed except those that could lead to identification. The saddest of these were a pair of baby shoes. Parts of the beautiful decorations in the ship also washed up. Many pieces were taken and turned into other pieces by the locals.

Class  system was evident in both life and burial. Look at these three rooms and menus. The first class had coffins, the second and third canvas shrouds and the crew, a stretcher. The third class menu is not to my liking but for the person , it may have been luxury compared to their usual meal.

What was your favourite part of the Museum. For me it was the section on sail boats. You walked in to the sound of the wind in the sails, the creak of the boards under your feet and the smell of the ropes. The Museum showcases the time of the sailboats but has gone further to teach children and others some of the traditional skills. They can learn how ropes were made, figureheads caved and better still, how to make their own rowboat. The scheme seems to be successful with one group already rowing beautiful boats and a Mi’kmaq family has made a traditional canoe. The  Museum is planning to expand the scheme. Rest time…….see you tomorrow. Oh if the photos aren’t coming through to your email, just flip over to the website…….site powers don’t know why sometimes they don’t come through.

Ropes.
Original figurehead
Replica

Hurrah, we have clothes!

You have survived the long flight from Sydney to Los Angeles. Well done! Better still immigration and customs at LA airport were a dream and the personnel were smiling. We were impressed. 

Next was the four hour wait for the Toronto flight, but I did get you a chocolate milk and the long walk from Terminal 1 to 6 loosened those stiff legs. Now the Toronto arrival was interesting. Because of COVID ( yes, you still need a mask), planes are much slower to disembark here. They only let 50 people off at a time so this means planes sit on the tarmac waiting their turn ( up to four hours in some peak times) for a spot. We were lucky because our wait was 20 minutes. This explains Air Canada cancelling so many of our flights and rescheduling them. 

Finally after overnighting in Toronto, we caught the plane to Halifax. Yes it was a 3.30am start but you had time for a coffee and snack from Tim Horton’s, no maple glazed donuts but the muffin was excellent.

No autumn colours yet.

Halifax airport…bag conveyor……it moves….will our luggage have made it…..yes there’s my bag! I’m okay! We wait and then….hurrah Mike’s made it too. We had booked them through from LA.

 

I expect you thought you could have a nap. Sorry ,no time for that! You need to explore the city. We head uphill ( did I mention Halifax is quite hilly) to the Clock tower and Citadel. The clock tower was built in 1803 and still keeps excellent time.

Stole this one as no room for a drone.

Boom! Is that thunder? No it is the noon cannon being fired at the Citadel. The Citadel is a modified star shaped fortress built the hill…..this was added too and expanded . It was built as a part of a defence for the port against the French. It has been rebuilt 4 times to adapt to the demands of environment and war technology. The last ,and present , building was of brick and stone with a dry moat. It was last used in World War 2 for training, planning and holding prisoners of war. Presently it holds a Canadian Army Museum, in the single mens barracks and is open for tourists to explore.

Guards room with cells attached.

Inside the barracks. I bags sleeping near the fire in winter.

All your belongings!

Did you find the fact that some men enlisted in the army so they , and their children , could be educated interesting? Queen Victoria certainly had some innovative ideas and instructed that all regiments should have access to education. Wives of the soldiers could earn money working in the school, washing , cooking , sewing or running the stores for the garrison. I wonder if they got to keep the money?

Don’t you love this newspaper front page from 1945

During the WW1 a Norwegian ship and a French munitions ship collided in The Narrows of Halifax Harbour. The resulting explosion of 2950 tonnes of munitions flattened the northern part of the city killing nearly 1800 people. 9000 were injured and 6000 were made homeless. When the suburb was rebuilt, it was styled on an English garden village. The houses are wooden ,like most homes in Canada ,but you have sections of just one style and then another of a different design. Painted different colours , they are known locally as ‘salt box houses’and have a small roadside garden in front. Some are now rundown but still look picturesque from afar don’t you think?

Well I don’t know about you , but I need something to eat and a rest. Tomorrow we will explore the waterfront and perhaps get you that maple glazed donut,

Leaving….at last

   Well after a year in planning and umpteen plane changes , we are at the airport. Bags have been booked through and Mike remembered the passports( yes I did decide to give him one more chance).
Now just to remind you ,we are going to Canada . We travel to Toronto via Los Angeles today and then onto Halifax. From here we are training it to the main cities and finishing in Vancouver. Then there is that side trip to Alaska to catch the Alaska rail Fairbanks to Anchorage.
Following the trains , we are taking a ship around the coast of Alaska.   Now I know you were really looking forward to bento boxes, seeing the autumn colours and visiting the maritime museum in Tokyo. There was just a slight change on Friday and we are going to Hawaii instead so put away the yen until next time……maybe. There was a scramble to change flights, airlines etc but we have managed so you won’t be stranded on the beaches in Honolulu. Sit back, enjoy your coffee and get ready for the long flight. I hope you are wearing comfortable clothes.

Time to go

    The plane is here!

Bye 247 , you have served us well.

Our week on Norfolk has flown past and we are heading home but before we go let’s check out how we spent the last few days…….and visit some of those picturesque places before we go.

Off to the theatre we went. The play was the “Trial of the Fifteen “.  Fifteen historical characters were brought before a Magistrate and Court clerk. The fifteen characters were played by two talented locals who whipped on different props to represent their characters. As the audience all booed or cheered them ,  we listened to their evidence. My favourite was the Polynesian rat that scuttled around the stage. Which did you like…Captain Cook, one of the wives or governors?

Government House is only opened once a month. Fees collected are given to different charities. Over the last few years, the interior has been restored to be as close as possible to how it looked originally.  The curtains and floor mats are stunning.Rooms are arranged around four courtyards of varying size. You are not allowed to photograph inside…..except for the courtyards though I did sneak one of a quilt……sorry…..I know I should be dead for breaking National security.   

Now you know there are amazing museums on the island with artefacts from the Sirius wreck, a restored house and artefacts showing life on Norfolk in those early days. Here are just a few photos to remind you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now history  not your thing ? You know you can only spend part of the time doing retail therapy, don’t you? There really isn’t that many shops.  The scenery is beautiful so take a drive, but not after you have been wine or liquor tasting, and experience the scenery.

 


Have I wetted your interest? Well  rush out and book your trip. It is only two and a half hours away . You may wish to avoid those cliffs tripping  you or if you are a cow , you may not want to visit your bovine friends on this particular street. Until next time..

 

 

Come Join us on our travels!